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 The Classic Performance Products...  The Classic Performance Products Drop-Out Battery Box is also available for Optima-sized batteries, but we went with the standard group-24 size. We're running new cables too. The two-gauge black cable and lugs are from a welding supply store and will be used for the positive lead. We picked up the clear cable we will be using as the ground, as well as the brass terminals and clamps at the local parts store. |
 As soon as the old battery...  As soon as the old battery was removed, we ditched the factory battery tray. We already got rid of the heater core and filled the firewall, so this side of the engine bay is really starting to look naked. While we were there, we fed the old positive cable down by the starter and pulled off the engine ground. It was bolted to the front-most exhaust manifold bolt. |
 We determined the right framerail--just...  We determined the right framerail--just behind the cab--to be the perfect place to bolt the CCP stainless box, so Chris marked the holes. We have a bird's-eye view because the bed floor is missing, but this spot will provide easy access from under the truck later on. The holes were then drilled out to the proper diameter. |
 We peeled off all of the protective...  We peeled off all of the protective tape from the mount, lined it up with the holes, and bolted the mount to the frame. |
 Our group-24 battery slid...  Our group-24 battery slid right into the box and fit like a glove. |
 From underneath, Chris lines...  From underneath, Chris lines up the hooks and slides the battery up until the hooks lock into place. |
 With the battery in place,...  With the battery in place, we began to build and mount the cables. The ground goes from the battery to the nearest framerail, but we were careful to leave enough slack so the battery could drop down for removal. |
 Each end was then stripped....  Each end was then stripped. One end got a copper lug, the other a brass terminal clamp. |
 We cleaned the area around...  We cleaned the area around an existing hole and bolted down the ground. Then we snugged up the terminal clamp. |
 We still needed to ground...  We still needed to ground the engine so we cut another small piece of ground wire to run from the exhaust-manifold bolt to the framerail. The ends were stripped and a copper lug was crimped onto each end. |
 Again, the area around each...  Again, the area around each hole was cleaned, and the bolts were snugged down. |
 Now for the positive cable....  Now for the positive cable. We grabbed one end of the welding cable, stripped it, and affixed a lug. Down on the starter, we simply pulled off the nut and replaced the old cable with the new one. |
 The cable then needed to run...  The cable then needed to run along the framerail for the length of the cab. We used four insulated metal clamps and self-tapping screws to mount 'em. |
 Now the cable could be cut...  Now the cable could be cut to length, and the clamp could be attached and mounted to the terminal. |
 Finally, the supplied stainless...  Finally, the supplied stainless battery hold down was snugged up, and that was it. Now on to the CPP fuel cell. |
 The new gas tank from Classic...  The new gas tank from Classic Performance Products fits '60-72 GM truck frames and comes with mounting hardware, fuel line and vent fittings, and your choice of fuel fillers and sending units. |
 Between the framerails, directly...  Between the framerails, directly in front of the rearmost crossmember is where the tank fits. Since I still have no bed floor, the install did not necessitate the removal of the bed. |
 The small crossmember that...  The small crossmember that used to secure the spare tire needs to be removed. Chris cleaned off the bottom of the rivet with the plasma cutter. Next, an air chisel was used to pry the crossmember off of the frame. Then the rest of the frame was checked to make sure there was nothing that would keep the tank rails from sitting flush against the frame. There were a couple of ancient exhaust mounts in the way, so we cut them off and cleaned off the frame before proceeding. |
 Chris placed the tank onto...  Chris placed the tank onto a towel-protected jack and carefully jacked it into place. The jack held the tank centered while the holes were marked for drilling. |
 First, Chris marked the existing...  First, Chris marked the existing frame holes onto the tank to check their relation to the holes being drilled. Then he laid the mounting rail in place and marked the holes. The rearmost hole in the frame matched up with the rail perfectly, so the other two were marked from there. |
 Chris drilled the tank rails...  Chris drilled the tank rails out to about 3/8 inch. |
 The tank was jacked back into...  The tank was jacked back into place, and the holes were started on the frame. Then Chris dropped out the tank one last time, and the holes were drilled out completely. |
 Since the inside of the framerail...  Since the inside of the framerail cannot be accessed with the tank in place, the mounting rail was set into position before the tank was jacked into place. |
 Finally, the six provided...  Finally, the six provided bolts were started and snugged into place. |
 Now it was time to remove...  Now it was time to remove the stock tank from inside the cab and weld up the filler neck hole. |
 The lead and ground were removed...  The lead and ground were removed from the stock sending unit, and the fuel line was disconnected. Then, the straps that hold the tank down were unbolted and bent out of the way. |
 Now the tank could be slipped...  Now the tank could be slipped off of its mounts and out of the truck. The mounting straps could then be bent flat and pulled off of the back of the cab. |
 Chris pulled the old crusty...  Chris pulled the old crusty seal off of the filler hole and cleaned up the area to be welded. Then a piece of sheetmetal was cut out to fit the hole with tin snips. |
 Chris first tacked the filler...  Chris first tacked the filler piece into place and then worked his way around until it was fully welded. |
 The welds were ground flush,...  The welds were ground flush, and the surrounding areas were cleaned up. We'll add a coat of filler and primer later. |
 The rest of the required parts...  The rest of the required parts came from Pep Boys in the form of 9 feet of 3/8-inch fuel line, clamps, and an APC air breather. We even found the breather in black to match the fuel filler. |
 Chris fed the line along the...  Chris fed the line along the framerail until it could be attached to the steel line where it continues forward to the fuel pump. |
 The line was secured to the...  The line was secured to the brake line with zip ties the rest of the way back to the CCP gas tank. |
 The line was cut to length...  The line was cut to length and secured to the fitting with a clamp. |
 We changed the 90-degree fitting...  We changed the 90-degree fitting to a straight one and attached the air breather above it. |
 The fuel-filler type we chose...  The fuel-filler type we chose is meant to set flush on the bed wood. All we'll have to do once we have our floor is cut the hole to size and mount the filler with those three screws. Another option is to have a cap screw directly onto the cell and then add a door to the floor to access it. |
 Our sending unit was already...  Our sending unit was already installed, but since our dash is stripped, there's nothing to hook it to. We'll cover that when we install our new gauges. |
 We were really impressed with...  We were really impressed with how easy both of the installs went, as well as how great the CCP tank fit in its new home. We can't wait to install the rest of our components from Classic Performance. But until then: more block sanding. |