The thought process behind installing any brand of thermal-acoustic barrier into the cab of a classic truck is to stay cool and quiet, or in cold climates, stay warm. The more vintage a truck is, the more likely its manufacturer didn't want to raise its MSRP (manufacturer's suggested retail price) by paying attention to creature comforts. A few pennies saved on each of a million units produced add up to a lot of money.

There are more than just a few good reasons to install Eastwood's Thermo-Coustic sound-deadener material into the cab of one's truck. Right off the top there's Eastwood's claim the product "banishes road noise, floor pan vibration, and exhaust heat from your classic machine," but what are the other advantages one will enjoy? In addition to knocking sound levels down considerably, any good sound-control mat with a heavy butyl-rubber membrane such as Eastwood's works great to plug up medium to large sized pinholes. I'm talking about an easy weekend fix for the cab floor of a good old work truck with a rusty floor, or any pickup where one wants to make sure dust and dirt isn't seeping in.

On the flipside, for a higher-dollar customized classic truck with air-conditioning and a good sound system, either feature will not have to work as hard to deliver better results – you'll maintain colder air and hear clearer sound. But it isn't the butyl-rubber membrane in a sound-control mat that helps to reduce engine and exhaust heat. It's true that Eastwood's butyl-rubber membrane is rated to a service temperature of 140-degrees Fahrenheit, but it's the mil thickness of the aluminum facing that determines how effective any brand of sound-control mat will be at resisting heat intrusion.

1. Carefully strip the carpeting and padding out as it will be needed later to use as a template, especially the tunnel.

2. Discard: It's not unusual to find wiring remnants from old stereo and CB radios under the carpet. Determine what factory wiring needs to stay and what doesn't.

3. Nothing works better to clean out (soak) 30 years of dirt from an old pickup cab than high-pressure water from a garden hose.

4. Whether it's a Ford, Chevy, or Dodge, cab corners are always prone to rust. Check to make sure drain holes are clear. Do not obstruct drain holes with Thermo-Coustic mat.

5. I used hot soapy water (Mothers California Gold) with a coarse (green) 3M pad to scrub and prep the cab floor for paint. Follow with a heavy flush of water and dry with compressed air.

6. Flush the inside of the doors with water and blow dry. Notice if drain holes are draining.

7. A cause of future rust: Notice the pile of MIG wire? It must have been the door welder's first day on the job. Note drain hole.

8. More bare metal that should be treated with Eastwood rust encapsulator before covering with Eastwood Thermo-Coustic.

9. The cab floor was covered with light rust and thin paint. I sprayed Eastwood Rust Converter on all of the lightly rusted areas before insulating.

10. On the areas where the paint had worn off I sprayed a heavy coating of Eastwood Aero-Spray 2K chassis black. Eastwood's Aero-Spray 2K paints are a true two-part catalyzed finish that dries fast and hard.

11. The back wall of the cab is the easiest place to start, and best for practicing before covering more complex areas. I used a measuring tape to determine how much area one sheet would cover.

12. I removed (exposed) just a small portion of the brown paper backing to tack the Thermo-Coustic sound-control mat into place.