01. The fuel system is considered a returnless system. Basically that means there is not a return line running from the pressure regulator to the fuel tank. On a Corvette fuel system the fuel filter bleeds off the extra fuel. The bottom tube is the feed, the one above it is the return. The one on the right obviously goes to the engine.
02. The filter is mounted to the inside of the framerail on the passenger side up by the battery. I wanted it in an area that was easy to access so it was easy to replace when needed.
03. The stainless flex line connects the steel hardline on the frame to the injector rail. Again Street and Performance has this whole line setup. It's an optical illusion, the stainless flex fuel line is not sitting on the header like it appears in the picture.
04. The aluminum tank has the fuel pump mounted in the tank. 3⁄8-inch pipe ports allow -6 fitting to be installed and the -6 stainless flex connected. Wiring is the hot from the computer/fuel pump relay and a ground.
05. The heater hoses and A/C lines were no problem when hooking them up. The LS's have a 3⁄4-inch and 5⁄8-inch heater hose bibs. We have two 5⁄8-inch hoses from the previous hookup. A short piece of 3⁄4-inch heater hose and a 5⁄8 to 3⁄4-inch plastic reducer got the heater feed line connected and the return was simply trimmed to fit and connected.
06. Since the A/C fittings are close to the header tube, I made a small shield to protect them from the heat.
07. The shield just bolts to the header flange with one of the header bolts. We painted it black.
08. With the cold-air intake and different radiator, the A/C condenser needed to be remounted a little lower. Here, Bob is getting it into position so I could come up with some new mounts.
09. This is the one that came with the condenser. It bolts to the bottom bolt for the air dams on each side.
10. Some cardstock is used to lay out the shape and hole locations of the new brackets. When satisfied, I cut out the pattern and transferred it to some metal. Hole locations are also center punched from this template.
11. Here's a test fit of the new bracket I made. I will use 10⁄32 screws to mount the bracket to the condenser at the bottom.
12. The top of the condenser needed a bracket also. A piece of wire bent for the angles needed and a couple of measurements and this is what I got.
13. It attaches to two of the stock hood latch bolts and over to the condenser. The bolts were replaced with longer ones so Nylok nuts could be used when it was finally installed.
14. The grille was installed to check clearances around the remounted condenser.
15. This is where the radiator hoses came from. I like getting the tightest radius bends I can in the tubes. This is .065-wall header tubing, 1 1⁄2-inch for the upper and 13⁄4-inch for the lower.
16. Sometimes you get lucky and the tubes just fall in place when you cut and fit them – one weld and the lower hose is done.
17. This is how it fits the engine and radiator.
18. The upper hose was done the same way and ended up with only one weld also.
19. Here's how the two hoses look when connected. These were just painted satin black, but they could have been chromed or powdercoated.
20. Since you have to run an electric fan, we needed a fan shroud. Bob happened to have a shroud we use on the stock Ford radiators. With a couple of cuts and welds it fit like a champ. Who would've thought?
21. This is how the whole thing fit. The radiator, shroud, and fan. The upper shroud bracket is hidden by the cold-air intake plenum.
22. It's all done and purring like a kitten.
23. This is one clean installation. These motors are so compact and bitchin' looking. The cold-air intake is something a previous employee of Bob's came up with. This swap was the second in a row at the shop and when he made the one for the first truck, he made another for this one at the same time. There is a flat filter inside and it draws air from the bottom, in front of the radiator.
24. This is 21st century hot rodding. With the computer-controlled engine, the program can be modified to our liking. The dyno we're sitting on is going to tell us what we end up with in rear-wheel horsepower and torque.
25. While running on the dyno, Ryan can simulate highway speeds and adjust for the best performance.