When I set out to build my truck I really didn’t know how or what it would take to accomplish my goals. I started off by drafting a plan not on paper, but in my head, so that things would somehow magically start putting themselves together. Well you and I both know that does not happen, but what I did realize was if I didn’t start somewhere I wouldn’t start at all. Try and fail, but never fail to try is a quote I like to stand by when doing anything in life. I guess my point is how do you know you can or can’t do it until you try?
Since I raised the bed floor...
Since I raised the bed floor on my truck, the fenders sat way too high in the bed. So I opted to remove 3 inches from the bottom of the stock fender.
I admit sheetmetal work is not the easiest thing for me to do, but with practice and time my skills have improved. So when I was up against the challenge of making my rear fenders fit in my new bed floor I asked for help and suggestions, which came pouring in from the guys at Deuces Wild and Coachcraft.
If you didn’t read last month’s CLASSIC TRUCKS then let me explain. I used a steel bed floor from LMC Trucks in my ’59 Apache. Now I need to make my stock fenders fit, but also add clearance for the larger wheels and tires. I widened the inner fenders with the help from a MIG or TIG welder, cut-off wheel, hammer and dolly, jigsaw and some cold rolled steel.
I purchased a half sheet of 14-gauge cold rolled steel for the base of the fender and 2-inch-by-8-foot 16-gauge cold rolled flat stock to widen the stock fender. So with some direction and a basic idea of what I wanted to accomplish I started by diving headfirst and just going for it. Turned out the job of widening the stock fenders was easier than I thought.
I used some tape, a permanent...
I used some tape, a permanent marker, and a square to evenly mark around the base of the fender. Make sure to use a flat surface or the line could be off.
A cut-off wheel or buzz saw...
A cut-off wheel or buzz saw can be used to cut the fender. I personally like to use the buzz saw because I can get a straight line and not inhale cut-off wheel dust.
After cutting the fender base...
After cutting the fender base I used a 60-grit sanding disc to de-burr the fender.
The next step was to cut the...
The next step was to cut the fender down the middle. I used green tape to align one end to the other.
Now that the fender is cut...
Now that the fender is cut down the center I made sure that it was cut straight and removed or filed down the uneven spots.
Here I cleaned the paint on...
Here I cleaned the paint on the fender on the outside and inside, so that the paint would not wreak havoc on the welds.
I used a 2-inch 16-gauge strip...
I used a 2-inch 16-gauge strip of cold rolled sheetmetal to widen the fender. Make sure to use the same size material as the fender so that it will be easier to hammer and dolly.
To start I used a MIG welder...
To start I used a MIG welder to tack the 2-inch strip to the fender. I asked Anthony Stoessel from Coachcraft Autobody and Paint in Fillmore, California, on the best way to weld in the strip. He said that it is impossible to weld it in perfect and that I should try to make the 2-inch strip the low spot and the stock fenders the high spot. This way the 2-inch strips could be hammered and dollied to match the stock fenders and minimum filler material used.
Make sure to jump around when...
Make sure to jump around when spot welding the fender strips. A body hammer was also used to contour the strips to the stock fender.
I switched to a TIG welder...
I switched to a TIG welder so that I would not have to grind all the MIG welds off. TIG welds lay much flatter and I could control the heat with a TIG welder better.
Now we are getting somewhere....
Now we are getting somewhere. I test fit the fender to see how it looked and made sure the tire would clear the new opening.
Anthony came over from Coachcraft...
Anthony came over from Coachcraft to lend me a hand with the bodywork. Something I could use a lot of help with. Using a hammer and dolly Anthony made the fender contoured so that minimal filler could be used.
Notice the gap between the...
Notice the gap between the straight edge and the fender. A good rule is to not use more than a 1⁄8-inch layer of filler.
Larger than 1⁄8 inch, the...
Larger than 1⁄8 inch, the filler material tends to be problematic after painting.
Right after Anthony grinds...
Right after Anthony grinds down the TIG welds he uses the hammer and dolly while the metal was still hot.
The next step was fitting...
The next step was fitting the 14-gauge base material to the modified fender.
I found that using good protection...
I found that using good protection like a mask and gloves makes me work faster and longer. A jigsaw was used to cut out the shape for the fender base.
I did not cut on the marked...
I did not cut on the marked line but rather a 1/4 inch inside the line. If I cut a 1/4 inch inside the line I could file and cut the fender to fit perfect.
I slipped the 14-gauge steel...
I slipped the 14-gauge steel over the fender and held it up with 1/4 plate so that I could spot-weld the fender in.
The MIG welder was used to...
The MIG welder was used to spot weld in the 14-gauge base.
The fender base was then cut...
The fender base was then cut down so that it sat just outside the wheel opening. Make sure to align the fender well so that the wheel is in the center.
Don’t forget to look on the...
Don’t forget to look on the underside of the fender. In my case I have 2 inches or so of extra clearance. I left enough room to add wider tires.
The fenders were then drilled...
The fenders were then drilled and bolted down to the bed floor in four spots. I may use bolts to hold the center of the fenders to the bed, but simply ran out of bolts…darn.
So there you have it – a ruffed-in...
So there you have it – a ruffed-in fender that fits your wide wheels and tires. I plan on applying some kind of bedliner on the bed and fenders, but for now I will smooth down some of the welds and epoxy primer everything.