Do It Yourself Fender Modifications - Classic Trucks Magazine

Do It Yourself Fender Modifications Fenders

When I set out to build my truck I really didn’t know how or what it would take to accomplish my goals. I started off by drafting a plan not on paper, but in my head, so that things would somehow magically start putting themselves together. Well you and I both know that does not happen, but what I did realize was if I didn’t start somewhere I wouldn’t start at all. Try and fail, but never fail to try is a quote I like to stand by when doing anything in life. I guess my point is how do you know you can or can’t do it until you try?

Do It Yourself Fender Modifications Fender

Since I raised the bed floor on my truck, the fenders sat way too high in the bed. So I opted to remove 3 inches from the bottom of the stock fender.

Since I raised the bed floor on my truck, the fenders sat way too high in the bed. So I op

I admit sheetmetal work is not the easiest thing for me to do, but with practice and time my skills have improved. So when I was up against the challenge of making my rear fenders fit in my new bed floor I asked for help and suggestions, which came pouring in from the guys at Deuces Wild and Coachcraft.

If you didn’t read last month’s CLASSIC TRUCKS then let me explain. I used a steel bed floor from LMC Trucks in my ’59 Apache. Now I need to make my stock fenders fit, but also add clearance for the larger wheels and tires. I widened the inner fenders with the help from a MIG or TIG welder, cut-off wheel, hammer and dolly, jigsaw and some cold rolled steel.

I purchased a half sheet of 14-gauge cold rolled steel for the base of the fender and 2-inch-by-8-foot 16-gauge cold rolled flat stock to widen the stock fender. So with some direction and a basic idea of what I wanted to accomplish I started by diving headfirst and just going for it. Turned out the job of widening the stock fenders was easier than I thought.

I used some tape, a permanent marker, and a square to evenly mark around the base of the fender. Make sure to use a flat surface or the line could be off.

I used some tape, a permanent marker, and a square to evenly mark around the base of the f
A cut-off wheel or buzz saw can be used to cut the fender. I personally like to use the buzz saw because I can get a straight line and not inhale cut-off wheel dust.

A cut-off wheel or buzz saw can be used to cut the fender. I personally like to use the bu
After cutting the fender base I used a 60-grit sanding disc to de-burr the fender.

The next step was to cut the fender down the middle. I used green tape to align one end to the other.

The next step was to cut the fender down the middle. I used green tape to align one end to
Now that the fender is cut down the center I made sure that it was cut straight and removed or filed down the uneven spots.

Now that the fender is cut down the center I made sure that it was cut straight and remove
Here I cleaned the paint on the fender on the outside and inside, so that the paint would not wreak havoc on the welds.

Here I cleaned the paint on the fender on the outside and inside, so that the paint would

I used a 2-inch 16-gauge strip of cold rolled sheetmetal to widen the fender. Make sure to use the same size material as the fender so that it will be easier to hammer and dolly.

I used a 2-inch 16-gauge strip of cold rolled sheetmetal to widen the fender. Make sure to
To start I used a MIG welder to tack the 2-inch strip to the fender. I asked Anthony Stoessel from Coachcraft Autobody and Paint in Fillmore, California, on the best way to weld in the strip. He said that it is impossible to weld it in perfect and that I should try to make the 2-inch strip the low spot and the stock fenders the high spot. This way the 2-inch strips could be hammered and dollied to match the stock fenders and minimum filler material used.

To start I used a MIG welder to tack the 2-inch strip to the fender. I asked Anthony Stoes
Make sure to jump around when spot welding the fender strips. A body hammer was also used to contour the strips to the stock fender.

Make sure to jump around when spot welding the fender strips. A body hammer was also used

I switched to a TIG welder so that I would not have to grind all the MIG welds off. TIG welds lay much flatter and I could control the heat with a TIG welder better.

I switched to a TIG welder so that I would not have to grind all the MIG welds off. TIG we
Now we are getting somewhere. I test fit the fender to see how it looked and made sure the tire would clear the new opening.

Now we are getting somewhere. I test fit the fender to see how it looked and made sure the
Anthony came over from Coachcraft to lend me a hand with the bodywork. Something I could use a lot of help with. Using a hammer and dolly Anthony made the fender contoured so that minimal filler could be used.

Anthony came over from Coachcraft to lend me a hand with the bodywork. Something I could u

Notice the gap between the straight edge and the fender. A good rule is to not use more than a 1⁄8-inch layer of filler.

Notice the gap between the straight edge and the fender. A good rule is to not use more th
Larger than 1⁄8 inch, the filler material tends to be problematic after painting.
Right after Anthony grinds down the TIG welds he uses the hammer and dolly while the metal was still hot.

Right after Anthony grinds down the TIG welds he uses the hammer and dolly while the metal

The next step was fitting the 14-gauge base material to the modified fender.
I found that using good protection like a mask and gloves makes me work faster and longer. A jigsaw was used to cut out the shape for the fender base.

I found that using good protection like a mask and gloves makes me work faster and longer.
I did not cut on the marked line but rather a 1/4 inch inside the line. If I cut a 1/4 inch inside the line I could file and cut the fender to fit perfect.

I did not cut on the marked line but rather a 1/4 inch inside the line. If I cut a 1/4 inc

I slipped the 14-gauge steel over the fender and held it up with 1/4 plate so that I could spot-weld the fender in.

I slipped the 14-gauge steel over the fender and held it up with 1/4 plate so that I could
The MIG welder was used to spot weld in the 14-gauge base.
The fender base was then cut down so that it sat just outside the wheel opening. Make sure to align the fender well so that the wheel is in the center.

The fender base was then cut down so that it sat just outside the wheel opening. Make sure

Don’t forget to look on the underside of the fender. In my case I have 2 inches or so of extra clearance. I left enough room to add wider tires.

Don’t forget to look on the underside of the fender. In my case I have 2 inches or so of e
The fenders were then drilled and bolted down to the bed floor in four spots. I may use bolts to hold the center of the fenders to the bed, but simply ran out of bolts…darn.

The fenders were then drilled and bolted down to the bed floor in four spots. I may use bo
So there you have it – a ruffed-in fender that fits your wide wheels and tires. I plan on applying some kind of bedliner on the bed and fenders, but for now I will smooth down some of the welds and epoxy primer everything.

So there you have it – a ruffed-in fender that fits your wide wheels and tires. I plan on

SOURCE
Eastwood 800-343-9353 www.eastwood.com	HTP America Inc. 3200 Nordic Road Arlington Heights IL 60005 800-872-9353 www.htpweld.com
Miller Electric 1635 W. Spencer Street Appleton WI 54912 920-734-9821 www.millerwelds.com	Lincoln Electric 22801 St. Clair Ave Cleveland OH 44117 216-481-8100 www.lincolnelectric.com
Deuces Wild Hot Rods 805-409-5332	Coachcraft 302 Orange Grove Ave, Fillmore CA 93015 805-524-7744

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Do It Yourself Fender Modifications - Easy DIY Fender Mods

Widen Those Inner Fenders