Check out the front wheels...
Check out the front wheels on this before photo. Crazy to see how much body roll the stock suspension has and how the front tire comes off the ground.
Keeping up with the Joneses can be a very daunting task especially when Mr. and Mrs. Jones own Corvettes. Not all of us can afford an expensive sports car, but that’s not the end all when it comes to having fun with our trucks. For several years now, companies like Hotchkis Sport Suspension have been taking what they learned from the performance car market and shoving that technology into a C10 truck. You may be asking yourself why they’d ever want to do that. Well for one, the price of getting a new or used Z06, Camaro, or sports car is far past my budget, plus I’m a truck guy, and if you’re reading this hopefully you are too.
The stock ’67-72 C10s already come with a great setup compared to a straight axle truck of ’50s, but the C10 has its limitations. The rear is equipped with a trailing arm suspension that NASCAR still uses today, and stamped upper and lower control arms in the front. The stamped control arms featured rubber bushings that make the ride nice, but allow the alignment to change when worn out and/or under hard cornering.
It’s hard for me not to compare a good-handling truck to a great-handling car because on paper it seems impossible. If we had some more power under the C10’s hood, the truck would have been a lot more competitive with the Vettes.
Speaking of alignment, the stock stamped control arms don’t have enough caster to create the desired handling characteristics that Hotchkis is used to in most performance cars. So with the Hotchkis kit, the lower arms are redesigned to extend the wheelbase 1.8 inches and add up to 9 degrees of positive caster.
We were not there to blast...
We were not there to blast past Corvettes, but rather have a fast street-driven truck that can be fun on the streets and track. Besides, can a Vette carry an ice chest, fishing poles, tent, chairs, or parts? I think you get the point.
The control arms also use a much bigger 4130 CNC-machined cross-shaft with bronze and Delrin bushings. The bronze bushings help support the load, while the Delrin lets the suspension move freely without squeaks or binding. Bumpsteer is also a problem with anything that has been lowered because the increased angle that the tie-rod ends and centerlink are under. Hotchkis reduced the bumpsteer by making the tie rods and centerlink travel on the same plain with the upper and lower control arms. This means when you are driving down a curvy road, the steering wheel will not shift in the opposite direction of the turn when you hit a bump in the road.
One of the cool things about Hotchkis is its rich history in racing and testing its vehicles on the street and track. So when I had the opportunity to head out to Willow Springs Raceway in California to test the before-and-after results of our C10 I was very excited. Who wouldn’t be? The first test we threw at the C10 was a 600-foot slalom and the stock C10 did OK – 51 mph at 7.99 seconds. After the Hotchkis TVS C10 suspension was installed it managed to jump up to 60 mph and 6.85 seconds. Even owner John Hotchkis was impressed with the slalom results.
We started by placing all...
We started by placing all the TVS C10 parts on the ground next to our work area. This helps us visualize the parts and order they will be placed on the C10.
Corey Bedortha started by...
Corey Bedortha started by placing the vehicle on the rack, but this can also be done on the ground with jackstands. Corey removed the cotter pins on the tie-rod ends and upper and lower ball joints.
We used a jack to put tension...
We used a jack to put tension on the spring as Corey removed the upper and lower ball joint nuts.
Corey removed the old spindle...
Corey removed the old spindle with the drum brakes as a whole assembly. The lower control arms can then be removed.
The upper control arm was...
The upper control arm was then removed with all of the alignment spacers.
The new lower control arms...
The new lower control arms have an alignment hole that locates the arm to the crossmember. The alignment hole also keeps the cross-shaft from rotating on the crossmember.
The Hotchkis lower control...
The Hotchkis lower control arm was then installed and the bolts tightened to specs.
Corey then installed the upper...
Corey then installed the upper control arm without any alignment spacers. The alignment spacers will be installed later when the vehicle is aligned.
Make sure the spring pocket...
Make sure the spring pocket is free of dirt and grease before installing the spring. The spring is then placed into the spring pocket.
We then tested the truck on a 100-foot skidpad with the stock suspension. The C10 had a 0.69g, and with the Hotchkis TVS C10 system the g’s were increased to 0.85g. We didn’t get a chance to test the brakes before, but I’m sure you guys know how the stock drum brakes feel and stop like. We did, however, test the brakes after we bedded in the brake pads, and from 60-0 the C10 stopped in 117 feet. We then looked at other trucks to review the stopping results and were surprised when our Wilwood brake-equipped C10 outperformed a 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 at 125 feet and a 2004 Ford Lighting at 123 feet.
With it all said and done I had the opportunity to take a few hot laps with Aaron Ogawa, Hotchkis’ lead engineer, riding shotgun. I have been in several really fast vehicles and can say the C10’s motor was lacking some power, but when hitting the corners the truck stuck to the track without understeer or oversteer. A bolt-in kit that fits well and handles great, how could you go wrong? All in all the truck has a better-looking lower stance and the ability to cruise down the freeway or fly through the local canyons and racetracks. Pretty cool, if you ask me.
Then the drop spindle is installed...
Then the drop spindle is installed onto the upper ball joint and the lower ball joint is pushed into the bottom of the spindle.
Corey then tightened the ball...
Corey then tightened the ball joints to specs and placed new cotter pins in the holes.
The upper shock stud is removed...
The upper shock stud is removed to get ready for the new upper shock mounts and Bilstien shocks.
Here Corey is drilling the...
Here Corey is drilling the frame for the upper shock mount. Make sure that the upper mount lines up with the lower control arm’s shock mounts. This way the shock will travel without binding.
Then we installed the new...
Then we installed the new Bilstein shocks to help with the vehicle’s handling.
A few rivets need to be removed...
A few rivets need to be removed to make room for the new Hotchkis sway bar mounts. Corey used Vise-Grips to clamp the crossmember to the frame so that the rivet does not bind when trying to remove it.
After the rivets were removed...
After the rivets were removed Corey chased the hole with a drill bit to clean up the mounting holes. You may need to drill a few holes depending on where the rivets are located on your frame.
Corey used the supplied lube...
Corey used the supplied lube on the inside of the sway bar bushings so they won’t squeak. Then he placed the sway bar on the new mounts and bolted it in.
The sway bar is then connected...
The sway bar is then connected to the lower control arm using a heim joint.
Next the centerlink is removed...
Next the centerlink is removed and the inner and outer tie-rod ends were measured. Corey used that measurement to rough-set the new tie-rod ends before it was aligned. When you measure the length of the old tie-rod ends it makes it easier for an alignment shop to dial it in. This way the guy at the alignment shop will not charge you extra for unnecessary adjustments.
We reused the old tie-rod...
We reused the old tie-rod ends in the photo, but Hotchkis says they will have some that will be a part of the kit by the time this article is out. Corey attached the new centerlink to the pitman arm, idler arm, and drop spindles. He then used new cotter pins on all the castle nuts so that they would not back off.
Since we upgraded the brakes...
Since we upgraded the brakes on the rear to discs we wanted to upgrade the fronts as well. For the front brakes we used Wilwood aluminum hubs, slotted rotors, and six-piston Superlite calipers. We installed the lug studs on the Wilwood aluminum hubs using blue thread lock.
The Wilwood rotor hat was...
The Wilwood rotor hat was then bolted on the rotor using blue thread lock. The bolts were also wired so that they will not back out. Make sure you read the Wilwood instructions on how to do this correctly.
The bearings were then greased...
The bearings were then greased using disc brake grease; make sure to use the rear bearing seal. Corey then installed the large castle nut and new cotter pin.
The Wilwood caliper was then...
The Wilwood caliper was then bolted on the rear of the drop spindle. Wilwood provides spacers that will help shift the caliper bracket toward the inside. Corey started with no spacers and test-fit the rotor and caliper.
The rotors are directional...
The rotors are directional because of the slots that get rid of excess gases. Make sure the arrow is pointing forward toward the front of the truck.
The caliper was slid on the...
The caliper was slid on the bracket and the pads were also installed. Corey then tightened the caliper and spun the rotor to see if there was any bind between the pads and the rotors. If there is bind then remove the caliper and space it so the rotor spins freely. Remember to install the bolt on the center of the caliper so the pads don’t slide out.
At this point it is a good...
At this point it is a good idea to double-check that all the bolts are tight and the cotter pins are all in.
Corey used a Wilwood adjustable...
Corey used a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. The stock master cylinder was used, but new brake lines were run to the front and rear brakes to replace the old rusted lines.
We borrowed a set of wheels...
We borrowed a set of wheels from Rob Phillips’ C10 which has the same kit installed on it. The wheels sizes are 19x10 1/2 with 275/35R19 Nitto NTO5 tires up front and 19x12 with 335/30R19 Nitto NTO5 in the rear. The Nitto NTO5 tires really help the Hotchkis suspension package stay planted on the ground.
Here is a cool shot of the...
Here is a cool shot of the C10 going through the 600-foot slalom.