A week or so ago I heard that the guys from Total Cost Involved Engineering were going to be installing (and videotaping) one of their ’55 to ’59 Chevy coilover IFS systems right here in our Source Interlink Tech Center. It’s not often an opportunity for us to chronicle a complete install a mere 100 feet from the comfort of our offices presents itself, so pulling rank, I asked Wes to hang out in the Tech Center that day and photograph the installation from start to finish so we could show the process to you here in the pages of CT.
TCI’s Custom Independent Front...
TCI’s Custom Independent Front Suspension systems are extremely complete, high-quality systems that are comprised of everything a classic truck hobbyist needs to convert his/her pickup to a great-riding, great-handling ride.
As most classic truckers are aware, TCI manufactures a variety of super-high-quality classic truck suspension and steering systems, and it’s always interesting and informative to see one installed in a start-to-finish scenario. The subject here is a ’55 Chevy and the system used is TCI’s 1955 to 1959 Chevy Truck Custom Coilover Independent Suspension System. You may recall that this is the very system I chose to use on my own ’57 chassis. I chose the TCI IFS setup because my years of using the company’s wares on nearly all of my street rod and classic pickup projects have been trouble-free and have offered easy installation and great handling after the fact. Aside from being designed and manufactured right here in the good ol’ U.S. of A., the Custom Coilover Independent Suspension system also offers superb craftsmanship, from the 1-inch-diameter TIG-welded upper tubular control arms to the 11⁄8-inch TIG-welded tubular lower control arms and engineered crossmember assemblies fitted with adjustable stainless steel concentrics for quick and easy caster/camber adjustments. The whole IFS package is a great example of the company’s focus on superior quality and workmanship.
So, rather than blabbering on and on, let’s get to it and take a look at the step-by-step installation performed right here in our Tech Center. Oh, and by the way, you’ll be able to use the QR code found in this article to view a video version of this install as well. CT
The first thing anyone should...
The first thing anyone should do before working underneath a vehicle of any kind is to make sure it’s safely supported by a stout set of jackstands and (if only lifted at one end) the wheels blocked so the vehicle will not move.
As you can plainly see, the...
As you can plainly see, the subject of this particular installation had been stripped of its engine, transmission, and front sheetmetal, making the installation and photography a bit less cumbersome.
In order to begin the installation,...
In order to begin the installation, a bit of deconstruction came first. The existing OEM axle and suspension had to be removed to make way for the new components.
Once the front suspension...
Once the front suspension was out of the way, the framerails were prepped by scraping away any undercoating and/or road grime that accumulated on the front frame section over the years. Once cleaned up as best a scraper and a wire brush were able, a grinding disc was then utilized to clean up the rail edges and surfaces in preparation for a bit of welding.
The kit includes a pair of...
The kit includes a pair of pre-cut boxing plates (specifically designed for the appropriate make, year, and model truck one is modifying) to not only reinforce the front rails, but to provide a good stable surface for the new IFS crossmember assembly.
Once the boxing plates are...
Once the boxing plates are held in place, you’ll find that the framerails are not equal widths top and bottom. As you can see, the lower surfaces are wider at the forward edge where they arch inward to provide a bit of extra meat for the OEM crossmember mounting area. A line was scribed (or drawn) on the lower rail surface where the boxing plate lower edge falls when held vertically from the edge of the upper rail edge. The lower rail edges were then trimmed along the mark so the boxing plates could be welded into place forming a true rectangular channel on either side of the new IFS crossmember mounting area.
Once the upper edges of the...
Once the upper edges of the boxing plates were tack-welded in place, a straight edge and a square were used to make sure the plates were perfectly vertical before (or while) tacking the lower edges of the plates to the rails.
The boxed framerails must...
The boxed framerails must be equal distances apart (left to right, top to bottom) so the new crossmember would slide snuggly and squarely between the left and right rails.
With the rails boxed, the...
With the rails boxed, the next step was to measure for correct crossmember location. In the case of the Chevrolet pickup, the centerline mounting point of the IFS crossmember was found by measuring 207⁄8 inches from the centerline of the front leaf spring mounting holes rearward (on both the left and right framerails of course). That measurement would be the centerline location of the new crossmember.
The crossmember was then slid...
The crossmember was then slid down between the framerails and its centerlines matched to the scribed lines on the rails. After rechecking that, the crossmember was positioned correctly and checked by measuring both the wheelbase dimension and diagonally for squareness, it was tack-welded in place.
Once the crossmember was installed...
Once the crossmember was installed and finish-welded, removal of the OEM front crossmember began. Removal can be accomplished in a variety of methods, the best being the removal of the factory rivets versus cutting it out with a torch or plasma cutter. Grinding, drilling, and/or driving out the rivets makes for a much cleaner, more professional finished product and also negates the possibility of heat-related warping of the frame.
Once it was determined that...
Once it was determined that the crossmember positioning was correct, the balance of welding could be completed. It’s important that the welding be done in rather short beads and that measurements are made as you go. This ensures that any heat-related movement or warpage is nonexistent or at least very minimal.