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Wilwood Engineering Brake Upgrade - A M...
E Coat Finish
1964 Chevy C10 - Match Made
1956 Ford F-100 - Mopar To Ya!
Modifying a Stock Column for Your Driving Pleasure
Classic Cruisers - 1968 Chevy C10
Wilwood Engineering Brake Upgrade - A Major Brake Upgrade
Wilwood Engineering’s Answer to Stopping
January 23, 2012
Begin by sliding the wire through two of the holes (left) that are 180 degrees apart. Twist the wire as shown (below) using safety wire pliers. Now slide one wire through two of the holes (180 degrees apart) and wrap the other wire around the bolt. Twist the wires together to form a pigtail.
Following the Wilwood instructions twisting the wire the correct direction. The safety wires purpose is to keep the bolt from backing out and must be installed the proper way.
Begin by sliding the wire through two of the holes (left) that are 180 degrees apart. Twis
Now, the spindle and hub that was put together can be installed onto the upper and lower ball joints. I also installed the tie rod arm that bolts on to the spindle. Make sure the tapered end is facing down so that the tie rod end will slip into the taper and locks when it is tightened down.
Now, the spindle and hub that was put together can be installed onto the upper and lower b
Notice the different sized washers/spacers that will help adjust the calipers bracket to fit the caliper to the rotor.
Notice the different sized washers/spacers that will help adjust the calipers bracket to f
The caliper bracket may look like it can install both ways but it will be slightly off if installed backwards. I installed the caliper bracket with four large spacers per bolt and with the bracket relief cuts towards the frame. Along with the caliper bracket comes the tie rod end bracket, the tie rod bracket also needs a spacer on one end but is much thicker than the others.
The caliper bracket may look like it can install both ways but it will be slightly off if
I placed the directional rotor on the hub and aligned the three tapered holes that help hold the rotor on the hub. I then used blue loc-tite and installed the bolts to the rotor. I also used some washers around two lug nuts and tightened them down, this will make sure I didn’t scratch or damage the rotor surface.
I placed the directional rotor on the hub and aligned the three tapered holes that help ho
Now its time to get out the Wilwood Superlite six-piston calipers that are radial mounted. Radial mounting simplifies adaptation and provides two planes of adjustment for accurate alignment over the disc. These calipers integrate “Big Brake” style with Wilwood’s latest technology to generate big stopping power in extreme environments over a broad range of vehicle applications. Notice the pistons inside the caliper are staggered; this helps the caliper apply force to the rotor in all the right spots for optimum brake performance. Note the calipers are directional.
Now its time to get out the Wilwood Superlite six-piston calipers that are radial mounted.
Use the four provided spacers on the top and bottom of the caliper brackets. I used two per caliper bracket stud.
Use the four provided spacers on the top and bottom of the caliper brackets. I used two pe
Next, test-fit the caliper onto the bracket and be careful not to force the caliper on or damage the paint. Make sure you are lined up on both sides for the brake pads to slide into the caliper easily. Use the 7/16 castle nuts and washers and tighten down the caliper to the bracket. If the pads don’t slide in easily, the provided eight spacers on the caliper bracket will need to be adjusted. I would suggest start off with all eight installed (four per caliper bracket) and remove two at a time until the pads slide in easy on both sides. When you are happy with the fit make sure to tighten the top bolt and spacer to hold the pads in the caliper.
Next, test-fit the caliper onto the bracket and be careful not to force the caliper on or
I like to spin the rotor to make sure everything in lined up. It is ok to have slight resistance from the pad to the rotor but for the most part the rotor should spin freely with the caliper and brake pads installed.
I like to spin the rotor to make sure everything in lined up. It is ok to have slight resi
The Wilwood stainless steel braided brake lines were then test fit on the caliper. I used plumber’s tape to seal the pipe threads but not on the brake line side that has flair. I also made sure that the brake line was long enough to not stretch or kink during lock-to-lock turning.
The Wilwood stainless steel braided brake lines were then test fit on the caliper. I used
Rj Plent from Deuces Wild Hot Rods and Customs helped by making this simple brake line plate that adapted the stainless steel line to the custom bent hard lines that he also bent.
Rj Plent from Deuces Wild Hot Rods and Customs helped by making this simple brake line pla
Wilwood has a plethora of different master cylinder bore sizes that will cater to your brake needs. I was just on the Wilwood web site and noticed they also have the master cylinders in a black E-coat finish.
Wilwood has a plethora of different master cylinder bore sizes that will cater to your bra
Another really trick thing from Wilwood is the adjustable proportioning valve and can be used for disc/drum or disc/disc applications. The Proportioning valve works by metering the line pressure in the rear brakes with the adjustable fine treaded screw. This allows the driver to fine tune the front to rear brakes so that the rear brakes will not lock up or skid under braking. Ideally the rear brake line pressure is adjusted so that the front brakes will lock up before the rears. I may install it near the drivers seat or in the more traditional spot under the hood.
Another really trick thing from Wilwood is the adjustable proportioning valve and can be u
Here Rj shows his handy work with bending brake lines. Coat hangers and Tig filler rod can be used as a guide to get a template for the bends.
Here Rj shows his handy work with bending brake lines. Coat hangers and Tig filler rod can
Bleeding brakes is no big secret, but you have to do it in the correct order. First start by bleeding your master cylinder, and then have someone pump the brakes slowly to prevent tiny air bubbles in the system. Ask the person pumping to hold pressure on the brake pedal so you can crack the brake bleeders on the furthest point from the master cylinder (right rear caliper). Then close the brake caliper bleeder screw and the brake pedal can be pumped up for pressure again, continue several times until no air comes out of the caliper. Then continue the process on to the left rear, front right and front left calipers until brakes hold pressure. Wilwood calipers have two brake bleeders on top of the calipers and Wilwood suggest that the inner bleeder then the outer bleeder until air is out of both.
Bleeding brakes is no big secret, but you have to do it in the correct order. First start
The final step is to walk around the vehicle and make sure all the lines are not leaking. If a leak is found fix it a re-bleed the brake system and make sure it holds pressure before driving the vehicle on the road.
The final step is to walk around the vehicle and make sure all the lines are not leaking.
4700 Calle Bolero
Deuces Wild Hot Rods
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