In 2005 my wife and I had the opportunity to purchase a brand-new car. When I drove the new car home I realized one thing right away, it was quiet inside and I didn't have to crank the windows down. At the time, I was driving a four-door '62 Chevy Impala with Rally wheels. It was a hard top so I could roll the windows down and it would almost appear as if it was a two-door, but that's beside the point. The only thing about that car was when I did roll the windows up the wind noise was horrendous and you were not able to talk to the passenger without yelling. Skip a few years, I sold the Impala to buy a 1959 Chevy Apache Fleetside, but again, the wind noise at highway speeds was enough to drive me crazy. So I contacted Brothers Trucks of Corona, California, where their friendly staff guided me through a way to get rid of some of the obnoxious noise coming inside the cab.

First order was to install their one-piece glass, along with new door components to shine up the interior. The kit comes with two window switches, wires, two regulators with motors, run channels, window felt, glass, and a bag of miscellaneous hardware. There are several things to take into consideration when installing the one-piece windows. One is, depending on whether you want to upholster the door panel or not; I choose not to upholster the doors. Secondly, the directions state that you can cut a square hole in the door for easy access to the guts of the door, but this step was not necessary with my doors as it was possible to reach the parts from the large open hole in the top of the door. Lastly, I wanted to maintain an original look inside the cab, preferring to maintain the stock-style handles to control the window motors. I was in luck, and it just so happened that Brothers Trucks had been working on a switch that would do just what I was looking for. The switches are separate from the kit but will operate the power window motors from the stock location in the door panel with Brothers replacement window crank handle—my stock crank handle would not fit the new switch.

So with the one-window piece window all figured out parts wise, I wanted to further reduce noise by also installing a new door seal. Taking these steps now ensures that when my truck is road worthy it will be more comfortable to drive. And besides, I want to hear some tunes while cruising!

I headed over to Barnes Fabrications of Escondido, California, where Jesse Barnes helped out where I needed more than one set of hands. The first step was to remove the door handle and crank window arm with a long flat-head screwdriver. Don’t pry them off, the handles have set screws on the underside and once unscrewed they should slide right off.

The next step was to remove the Phillips head screws from the door panels to remove the outer cover from the door, as well as the arm rests.

The door latch mechanism screws require a special tool, which luckily a local hardware store had in stock. Remove the door latch mechanism and set it aside.

Remove the upper door trim and there are two screws holding the wind wing, remove them.

Support the glass with tape and remove the window regulator bolts on the lower part of the door. Also, remove the bolts around where the window crank handle slides into.

Next, remove the felt. Jesse used a door panel removal tool but a regular flathead screwdriver will work.

Remove the 1/4-inch bolts holding the glass to the regulator and remove the glass from the door. If you plan on selling the glass, be careful when pulling it out so you do not scratch it.

Jesse removes the wind wings and, again, carefully makes sure not to scratch the glass.

You will need to cut this piece of the door. It helped guide the old window but now it will get in the way of the new one piece window.

Next, we used a block of wood and a hammer to even out the gaps in the front of the door. It doesn’t take much of an effort here; a few whacks with the hammer and the gaps were perfect.

Now is a good time to remove the old window run channel and clean where the old glue was.

There is a metal crossbrace that connects the inner and outer door skins; this will have to be removed to make room for the regulator. Jesse used an air powered buzz saw to make quick work of the metal crossbrace.

3M PN 08011 is a black weather strip adhesive that will work perfect to glue the new window run channel.

Here I used the 3M glue to attach the run channel to the rear upper door. Tape was used to hold the run channel and glue into place while I worked on the other pieces. Do not glue the whole run channel in at this point because the front of the window to the run channel may need to be spaced to fit your door properly. This will depend on how well your door was constructed by GM.