The front harnesses and wires consisted of the headlight harness, starter/ignition harness, and wires for gauge sending units, fan wire, electric choke wire, coil wire, and more.

The wires were then routed to the appropriate connections as noted in the instructions. After the individual wires were cut to the desired length, the appropriate terminal ends were crimped in place. Note: There is a correct way and an incorrect way to crimp the terminal ends. The seam in the terminal end should face away from the dimple portion of the crimping tool, thus the dimple, or the part that crimps against the wire, is solid. Heat-shrink tubing was used at each terminal end. Shrink tubing adds strength to the connection, makes the connection waterproof, and adds a professional look to the finished product. Note: In most cases, the shrink tubing will need to be slid over the wire in its preshrunk condition prior to installing the terminal end.

We chose to build a gauge wiring harness rather than connect the wires directly to the gauges. Since gauges normally are removed from the front this allows the gauges to be installed and removed by disconnecting the gauge harness from the electrical harness, instead of laying on your back, under the dash, installing or removing the nuts that secure the gauge wires. The construction of this harness only required us to cut the individual wires and install bullet-style connections to the ends of the cut wires. The reconnected wires remain color-coded and marked.

After installing the gauges in the dashboard, with the gauge wiring harness attached, we routed the various gauge wires (temperature sending unit and oil pressure sending unit) that are part of the wiring harness to the gauges.

The electric speedometer wires were separated and “paired” (twisted together) per the gauge instructions. One of the twisted wires was connected to the sending unit “in” lug on the speedometer, while the other wire was attached to the ground lug. A separate chassis ground was run from the speedometer ground lug to a chassis ground. The speedometer instructions suggested that the twisted wires not be run with other wiring, as that may cause interference with the electric speedometer.

The ignition switch was purchased from a local parts store. The switch is rated at 30 amps, and has the power in, accessory, ignition on, and start terminals. Per the wiring kit instructions the appropriate wires were connected to the marked terminals.

An off-on-on-on light switch, also from a local parts store, was selected for the headlights. This switch allows parking lights at the first on, driving headlights at the next on, and bright headlights at the final on. This eliminated a floor-mounted dimmer switch. The switch also had a terminal for the taillights, and we ran our dash lights off of that same terminal.

The rear section wiring harness was run along the edge of the passenger floor through a grommeted hole in the seat riser and out of the floor of the pickup truck cab. Obviously on a coupe, roadster, or sedan you would run the wires through the trunk area. The rear wiring harness consisted of taillight/brake light wires, license plate light wire, and the fuel sender gauge wire. Since we are utilizing an electric fuel pump we also included a switched fuel pump wire. Since we were not running a heater (we live in Florida) we used the fused “heater” wire in the wiring kit as the fuel pump wire.

The fan relay was mounted under the seat and wired per the instructions. We also added an on/off switch on the ground side of the relay. This allows us to manually turn the fan off should we choose to do so during engine maintenance. We chose to run the fan whenever the engine is running; we may add a temperature-controlled fan switch at a later date. We also installed a relay and a switch on the fuel pump; this, too, was mounted under the seat.