With the trans bolted down I was able to adjust the engine angle if needed. In my case the fan and shroud determined the angle the engine ended up sitting; it’s in the 3-degree range. That’s a good angle. The carb-mounting surface of the intake is usually level. If you’re running your truck with the hot rod stance, the engine will usually end up level when the truck is at ride height. With the engine centered and where I needed it, I cut some tubing to start the motor mounts. These mounts are just the basic nonlocking style. Applicationwise they were used on all GM cars and trucks in the ’60s and into the early ’70s I think. They fit small- and big-blocks. The tube is 7/8-inch tubing with a 7/16-inch hole in it. GMs use a 7/16-inch bolt, and Fords use a 1/2-inch bolt. The next step was to install the tube in the mount. If you’re going to try this yourself, and the motor mount bolthole is slotted, as in this case, tighten the bolt and tube almost at the top of the slot. You need the tube to stay right there. Then break out some card stock and start cutting it up until you come up with a design you like. The one shown here is one I’ve made for years--Ford or Chevy. The Ford’s tube is just a little bit longer and that part of the mount ends up a little bit wider than the Chevy’s. Once you’ve got your pattern, transfer it on some 3/16-inch mild steel plate and cut them out. Shape with a grinder, and check your fit as you go. When it’s shaped and ready, tack it to the tube and to the rail/ boxing plate. Get the card stock back out and create a gusset for underneath the top piece. This gusset should wrap at least halfway around the tube also. Again, when you have them ground, shaped, and fit, tack them in place. You want some good tacks on them just in case you bump the mounts when removing the engine to do the final welding.

After things were all tacked in place, I removed the engine and trans and did my finish-welding, but it can be done with the engine still in. Usually, though, the front frame section gets painted and the brake lines are bent up and installed before I reinstall the engine and trans.

If you’re using this article as a guide the following images show what kind of mount you should have ended up with--strong and rather stylish. It’s a lot better than the rectangular tube I started with, plus I can get the distributor cap off and even turn it to adjust the timing, all helpful things. With everything painted and reinstalled the fun begins--adding all the details in the reassembly. CT

SOURCE
Classic Performance Parts
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