For the most part, the majority of us classic truckers don't have unlimited budgets and there's more than likely lots of classic pickup owners out there running stock brake systems just because of that fact. Well, thanks to the folks at Classic Performance Products, we all now have a bunch of high-quality, yet surprisingly affordable, brake options available to us. In my case, I'd already upgraded my brake system (front discs and 11-inch rear drums) while refurbishing the '57's chassis but not the master cylinder assembly. My first thought was to just upgrade to a late-model OEM Chevy dual master that I'd mount in place of the original under-floor mounting area and call it a day. But, when I was perusing my dog-eared CPP catalog I was amazed to find that they offered a complete firewall-mounted power booster/master cylinder/prop valve conversion kit (in my case, PN 5559FBB2) for disc/drum brake combos for an affordable $299! Geez, I'd imagined a kit of that sort would have been a heck of a lot more expensive than that. Having found this kit, I immediately ordered one and waited patiently for my UPS driver to drop it off a few days later.
The CPP PN 5559FBB2 firewall-mounted power brake booster kit is designed to be compact and allow for clearance of any valve cover combination. Once installed, the firewall, dash, and steering column become triangulated making the entire assembly extremely rigid. Though the factory firewall-to-dash support must be removed and replaced with the new firewall-mount bracket with pedal assembly, it was still a relatively easy installation, even for me. Aside from the new mounting bracket the kit also includes an 8-inch dual power booster, a CPP master cylinder, a proportioning valve, an assembly and all mounting hardware (the bracket is also available separately for those who've already purchased a new master). The '55-59 kit will work with factory e-brake handle assembly, too-a pleasant surprise since I hadn't thought about it beforehand. Anyway, take a look at how I completed my pickup's brake system in one weekend, and for an affordable price to boot!
Upgrading to a CPP firewall-mounted...
Upgrading to a CPP firewall-mounted brake booster/master cylinder setup is the way to go in my opinion. Not only will it match my disc/drum brake system, but it'll give me added under-floor room and a more comfortable hanging pedal assembly, too. And since I'll be retaining the truck's original firewall-mounted battery the new booster/master will also help balance the look of the firewall.
The kit for the '55-59 Chevy/GMC...
The kit for the '55-59 Chevy/GMC includes a well-engineered replacement steering column support that even allows for the factory parking brake handle assembly to be mounted in its original position. It's thinking like this that takes CPP products to the next level.
The kit for the '55-59 Chevy/GMC...
The kit for the '55-59 Chevy/GMC includes a well-engineered replacement steering column support that even allows for the factory parking brake handle assembly to be mounted in its original position. It's thinking like this that takes CPP products to the next level.
The installation is an easy...
The installation is an easy and straightforward process; the most difficult step is the removal of the OE steering column support. This step does require drilling out a few factory spot welds while upside down and on your back, but after that the balance of the install is a breeze.
With the column drop unbolted...
With the column drop unbolted and the column support removed, the next step would be filling the holes in the cowl left by the removal of the factory spot welds (see the top center of the image). You don't want to forget that or you'll have wet feet the first time the truck is driven in the rain or through the car wash.
Once the column support was...
Once the column support was removed I then laid out the assembly and separated the new support bracket/pedal assembly from the booster/master combination. Here you can see the new support to the left of the OEM bracket that I'd just removed (as a note, I found it easier to remove the old support in three pieces).
As is the case with all of...
As is the case with all of CPP's component kits the company supplies pretty complete and easy-to-follow instruction sheets. In this case they include a great diagram complete with dimensions for properly drilling the needed mounting holes. All I had to do was follow the directions and transfer the dimensions to the firewall as shown.
Once the mounting pattern...
Once the mounting pattern was transferred to the firewall the first step was to cut a 2 1/2-inch hole for the brake actuator rod.
Next, I used the metal spacer...
Next, I used the metal spacer plate from the rear side of the booster, centered it over the 2 1/2-inch hole I'd just cut, and proceeded to center-punch the locations of the booster/master mounting holes. The spacer plate will go between the firewall and the back of the booster when I begin the installation.
Once the firewall was prepped...
Once the firewall was prepped and drilled, I readied myself for another underdash experience. As I mentioned earlier the new hanging pedal/steering column support includes this mounting pad that allows you to reinstall the OE parking brake handle assembly in its original position.
Next, I slipped the spacer...
Next, I slipped the spacer plate back over the mounting studs on the back of the booster/master assembly and slid the whole shebang into place. Since I work alone, I took a pair of short bungee cords and hung the assembly in place by hooking one end of the cords to the forward most master cylinder cover retainer and the other ends to the top of the cowl. This held the booster/master in place while I scooted back inside to start the nuts and washers on the mounting studs.
This inside view shows the...
This inside view shows the new column/pedal support in place and the washers and retaining nuts, which hold the booster/master to the firewall.
From this angle you can also...
From this angle you can also see the bellcrank/brake lever assembly and the input shaft connection. If you look closely you'll also see that the column drop has been reinstalled, too. The two column drop bolts also secure the column support to the bottom of the dash. Believe it or not, that's all there is to the firewall installation-all that's left is to bench-bleed the master cylinder and a bit of brake line plumbing.
The CPP firewall-mounted brake...
The CPP firewall-mounted brake kit comes complete with a preplumbed proportioning valve. The valve includes important components; it proportions fluid pressure to the front and rear brakes, integral 10-psi check valves, a metering valve that applies pressure to the rear brakes before the front, and a brake warning switch to detect a loss of line pressure.
While I was at it I ordered...
While I was at it I ordered a CPP brake line kit, too. The line kits are available with your choice of steel or stainless hard lines (I chose stainless, PN CPP6620-2); it includes 20 feet of tubing, 20 billet line clamps, four stainless 10mm brake hoses and banjo bolts, a stop light switch, fittings, and instructions, as well as AN and bulkhead fittings.
Luckily, I have a great flaring...
Luckily, I have a great flaring tool from the Eastwood Company that made easy work of properly flaring the stainless hard lines.
I started at the rear drums...
I started at the rear drums by installing the AN adapter from the kit into the rear-wheel cylinders.
Next, I drilled a couple of...
Next, I drilled a couple of 5/8-inch holes in the rear framerails and installed the bulkhead fittings that adapt the AN flex lines to the standard hard line fittings and installed the stainless braided flex hoses.
Then, I spent a few minutes...
Then, I spent a few minutes deciding how best to run the lines, took a couple of measurements, and cut and bent two lengths of hard line. These will run to a T-fitting attached to the crossmember.
Once I'd cut, bent, flared,...
Once I'd cut, bent, flared, and installed the lines from the flex hoses to the T-fitting I then did the same with a line that ran forward to the master cylinder (adding a second T-fitting and the stop light switch in that section of line).
From there it was back to...
From there it was back to the front of the truck and the plumbing from the master cylinder to the front discs.
And here's where my freshly...
And here's where my freshly updated brake system ended up as I put aside my wrench and camera. As you can see, I do have a couple more connections to go before I'm truly finished, but the better half was ready for me to tackle a couple of honeydews before I ran out of Sunday afternoon sunlight.