A lot of stories have been written about how to convert your truck from an axle to a Mustang II-type setup, but I wanted to steer off the beaten path and let you know about the option that costs a lot less: the dropped axle. So I headed over to Classic Performance Parts (CPP) in Anaheim, California, where owner Jim Ries and head honcho of R&D, Craig Chaffers, helped put together a kit to lower '55-59 Chevy trucks.
I started off with the idea of lowering the truck from 3 to 41/2 inches, depending on what parts I was going to use. Before we started I told Ries and Chaffers what my plan of action was, and they explained my options. A 3-inch dropped axle is and you most likely guessed right, 3 inches. If you wanted to go lower than that you could add a set of CPP 1.5-inch lowering leaf springs plus a CPP 3-inch dropped axle to get a total of a 4.5-inch drop. With the CPP 3-inch dropped axle it is not recommended to use a monoleaf lowering spring as a simple bolt-on kit because the axle would be placed too close to the frame and the suspension travel would be very limited. Limited travel will affect the ride quality (bottoms out) and cause pretty severe bumpsteer. The bumpsteer can be corrected with some creative fabrication and commitment to the challenge. For the sake of an easy install and not having to fabricate on the frame and other components I chose the CPP 3-inch axle and CPP 1.5-inch drop springs.
I already lowered the truck's rear end, and the truck was sitting in a stance I like to call "reverse stick bug" or a lowered pre-runner. Besides the stance issue, the majority of the front suspension parts have been on there since the late '50s and the term loose would be an understatement. Plus if any of you remember back then they used a torch to heat the axle and a bottle jack to bend it to close enough alignment. In my case the stock axle was warped from end to end and twisted, so I would get a pull and premature tire wear due to the wheels wanting to go in opposite directions. When I removed the stock axle and compared it to the new one the difference in quality was night and day. CPP uses a 2-inch seamless steel tubing with one-piece CNC-machined ends to make the axle. If you are worried about twisting or bending the axle when hitting a huge pothole you can just get that out of your mind and start worrying about your low-profile wheels and tires instead.
So if you're on a budget and have a limited amount of tools this may be the option for you.
I wanted to measure the front...
I wanted to measure the front end height before I installed the new CPP axles and springs. Thirty inches was the stock front end height from the ground to the bottom of the fender. As I said my front end was pretty much done for, so your stock springs may be slightly stronger than my springs and that would vary the ride level from vehicle to vehicle.
The next step is to support...
The next step is to support and raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. Chaffers made sure we place the lift on the frame of the vehicle and away from the front spring shackles. This made sure we had plenty of room to move the front spring out of the way in order to remove the axle and replace the spring. Also it would be a good time to make sure you have all the parts you need before you tear stuff apart. The axle comes bare metal so now would be a good time to paint it.
Chaffers removed the hubs'...
Chaffers removed the hubs' outer bearing cover and cotter pin on the spindle lock nut. With a large crescent wrench or the correct-sized socket and ratchet the outer hub bearing nut can be removed. At this point you can remove the brake drum, but be careful; it will be heavy because the hub is attached. The front bearing can be removed and set in a clean location on a rag.
Older vehicles such as our...
Older vehicles such as our '59 Apache sometimes will have the stock drum and hub riveted together. This might confuse you when one drum slips right off the hub and the other won't come off. Notice the difference between the left replacement drum and the stock riveted drum/hub on the right.
Remove the cotter pin and...
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end. Remove the nut halfway and use a hammer to hit the spindle end as shown. Snap-on makes a tie rod removal tool, but if you want to reuse your tie rods make sure not to damage the outer boot.
CPP offers a replacement tie...
CPP offers a replacement tie rod that is 1 inch in diameter and is a whole lot stronger than the stock 3/4 tie rod. Chaffers removed the driver-side tie-rod end and placed the drag link next to the new CPP for comparison. If you replace the tie rod you need to measure the old one and match the length with the new one by twisting the tie-rod ends. Matching the overall length will get you in the ballpark.
Remove the upper and lower...
Remove the upper and lower shock bolts and remove the shock. You will need to replace the stock length shock with a CPP shock that has a shorter stroke so you will have the correct dampening and rebound.
The drum backing plate needs...
The drum backing plate needs to be removed next; two cotter pins and four bolts hold it to the spindle. Remove the four bolts and support the drum backing plate with a hanger or hook. Make sure you secure the drum backing plate so it will not move when removing the other suspension parts, and that the brake line is not stretched or kinked.
Next, Chaffers removed the...
Next, Chaffers removed the driver-side drag link cotter pin and nut of the steering arm. Now the four bolts on the brake backing plate can be removed like the passenger side.
I wanted to replace the old...
I wanted to replace the old worn-out drag link. Chaffers removed the cotter pin from the drag link to pitman arm and removed the nut. Just like the tie-rod ends you can hit the pitman arm to free the drag link from the arm.
Chaffers used a 1/2 Snap-on...
Chaffers used a 1/2 Snap-on air gun to remove the lower U-bolt nuts. A little trick I like to do is leave two of the four nuts on but almost to the end so the axle is supported while you remove the other side. If you are working alone, grab a jackstand and support the opposite end that you just loosened up. Remove the four bolts and now walk to the other side. While supporting the axle with one arm, remove the two nuts that were left loose. The axle should now be free to remove from the vehicle. Be careful, it is heavy.
Check out the difference in...
Check out the difference in the thickness of the axles. The new CPP axle is a beefy beast and is not twisted like my factory axle.
Next, we placed the old axle...
Next, we placed the old axle in a vise with one of the spindle sides up and removed the lock nut for the beveled kingpin bolt. Chaffers used a punch and a hammer to remove the beveled kingpin bolt and hit it from the side the nut was on. If you hit it from the opposite side you will only be locking the beveled bolt in tighter to the kingpin and spindle, so make sure you hammer from the right direction.
Next, using a punch and a...
Next, using a punch and a hammer, Chaffers hit the end of the kingpin dust shield to get it to pop up. Once the dust shield is moved up take a prybar and remove it. Be careful not to damage the spindle with the punch or prybar, because a new dust shield will need to take its place. Repeat on the other side of the spindle.
Using a big brass punch slightly...
Using a big brass punch slightly smaller than the kingpin thickness and a large hammer, Chaffers pushed the kingpin out of the spindle and axle. This part you will need to use some force when hitting it out, and you can also use an air hammer with a blunt end if needed.
CPP has a kingpin set that...
CPP has a kingpin set that you need to use with the axle install; it is not recommended to reuse the old kingpins and bearings. When the spindle is free from the axle the next step is to remove the inner spindle kingpin bearing. Chaffers used a big punch and was careful not to damage the spindle when punching the bearing out. It's a good idea to use some emery cloth to clean the rust out of the inside spindle area before installing the new bearing.
Here, Chaffers used the old...
Here, Chaffers used the old bearing to tap and start the new bearing. We made sure the bearing was lined up correctly and used a Snap-on bearing race and driver set to finish guiding the bearings into place. When using the tool, force is your enemy; make sure you gently tap the bearing and that you are squared up with the bearing surface.
This is how you will set up...
This is how you will set up the bottom bearing, and there are two things you need to pay close attention to. The big end spacer that is on the far left is the top of the bearing, and you will need to lube these with a light coat of wheel bearing grease. Depending on what spindles you have on your vehicle there will be an extra-thick spacer that may be necessary to put above the bottom bearing. We didn't need it on my truck.
Chaffers lined up the bottom...
Chaffers lined up the bottom bearing and visually checked the endplay on top of the CPP axle to the spindle. We used one of the small shims that were supplied in the kingpin kit at the top of the axle in between the spindle. Do not use the shims on the bottom where the bearing sits.
Chaffers used the wooden end...
Chaffers used the wooden end of a file to line up the top spacer and bottom bearing before we installed the kingpin. The new kingpin should be a lot easier to install than the old one was coming out. Be very aware that when driving the kingpin in not to pinch the bearings or spacers.
Don't forget the kingpins...
Don't forget the kingpins beveled pinch bolt and nut. This is the only thing holding the kingpin from falling out when driving.
Ries showed us a cool way...
Ries showed us a cool way to easily install the outer kingpin dust shield. Take a large socket that will house the dust shield and place the domed end down. Using a small punch Chaffers hammered the dust shield so it would have a bigger dome and would be easier to install in the spindle. Once on the spindle use the same punch and tap the center of the dust shield to spread it back out.
Since I was going to use the...
Since I was going to use the CPP 1.5-inch drop springs, Chaffers removed the rear bolt and nut holding the rear spring perch on.
Moving on to the front, remove...
Moving on to the front, remove the four nuts on front spring shackles. Don't try to hammer the bolt through because it is threaded on the inside of the spring and the frame. Since we were also going to use CPP spring shackles and bolts Chaffers used a large vise grip and removed the bolt in the frame.
Since we were replacing the...
Since we were replacing the shackles and hardware Chaffers used penetrating oil to soak the front frame shackle nut to get ready to drive it out with a hammer and punch. You could also use the old threaded bolt to punch it out. We replaced it with the new CPP nut supplied in the shackle kit and threaded the new shackle bolt into it.
Chaffers placed the two supplied...
Chaffers placed the two supplied rubber bushings on the outside of the shackle and placed the shackles on the bolt. Make sure the center hole of the shackle is facing down so it will not interfere with the frame.
Thread the next shackle bolt...
Thread the next shackle bolt into the front spring threads and put two rubber bushings on the ends. The rear of the spring will not have any threads only the front. Now place the front spring into the shackle and use the supplied through bolt and tighten. Don't forget the zero fittings on the shackle bolts.
Reuse the old nut and bolt...
Reuse the old nut and bolt to install the rear of the spring into the rear spring perch.
We used CPP spring shackle...
We used CPP spring shackle plates and new U-bolts to hold the axle into place. The axle fit like a glove.
Ries says that in order to...
Ries says that in order to help with bumpsteer you need to heat and bend the steering arm. Notice the drag link is pointing uphill toward the front. The ideal drag link position would be pointing slightly down toward the front. You may not need to do this step if you don't want to but Ries and Chaffers highly suggest you check where your drag link location ends up after lowering the truck.
We removed the drag link and...
We removed the drag link and temporarily bolted the steering arm to the spindle. An oxyacetylene torch with a rosebud tip was used along with a huge crescent wrench to aid bending of the steering arm.
Ries and Chaffers heated and...
Ries and Chaffers heated and bent the steering arm in five different spots, and Ries could not stress enough that you need to do this slowly and try not to bend it all on one shot or one spot. When Chaffers was bending the arm he would only bend it when it was glowing red, and it was slight tweaks in position not huge bends. Every time the steering arm was bent it was cycled through its full range of motion to make sure it cleared the axle and shock.
We let the steering arm cool...
We let the steering arm cool and then Chaffers installed the drag link to the pitman arm with a cotter pin and a drag link to the spindle. The brake backing plate and four bolts were installed along with the hub and bearings with drums. The new CPP shocks and upper shock plates were also bolted on and checked for clearance. Make sure that you put all of the cotter pins in where you removed them during teardown. The tie rod was also installed on both ends and all the Zerk fittings were lubed with fresh grease.
I wanted to give the truck...
I wanted to give the truck a new look so I contacted Wheel Vintiques to purchase a set of Gennie wheels, 16x7 front and 16x8 rear, but with a 5x43/4-bolt pattern since I was planning on swapping over to CPP five-lug disc conversion. Coker Tires has a serious choice of tires to pick from and after contacting the tech hotline I went with 205/55R16 with 11/2 whitewalls in the front and 235/60R16 with 21/8 whitewalls in the rear.
Keep in mind that this is...
Keep in mind that this is no show truck, but rather where a show truck would start off as. In total, with the 3-inch dropped axle and the 1.5-inch drop springs, the truck has a much better stance and ride than with the stock front end. With all the suspension mods, we lowered the truck from 30 to 25 inches with the old tires and wheels. With the new wheels and tires the truck front end was lowered an additional 2 inches