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Classic Performance Parts 3-Inch...
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Classic Performance Parts 3-Inch Dropped Axle Install
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Next, Chaffers removed the driver-side drag link cotter pin and nut of the steering arm. Now the four bolts on the brake backing plate can be removed like the passenger side.
Next, Chaffers removed the driver-side drag link cotter pin and nut of the steering arm. N
I wanted to replace the old worn-out drag link. Chaffers removed the cotter pin from the drag link to pitman arm and removed the nut. Just like the tie-rod ends you can hit the pitman arm to free the drag link from the arm.
I wanted to replace the old worn-out drag link. Chaffers removed the cotter pin from the d
Chaffers used a 1/2 Snap-on air gun to remove the lower U-bolt nuts. A little trick I like to do is leave two of the four nuts on but almost to the end so the axle is supported while you remove the other side. If you are working alone, grab a jackstand and support the opposite end that you just loosened up. Remove the four bolts and now walk to the other side. While supporting the axle with one arm, remove the two nuts that were left loose. The axle should now be free to remove from the vehicle. Be careful, it is heavy.
Chaffers used a 1/2 Snap-on air gun to remove the lower U-bolt nuts. A little trick I like
Check out the difference in the thickness of the axles. The new CPP axle is a beefy beast and is not twisted like my factory axle.
Check out the difference in the thickness of the axles. The new CPP axle is a beefy beast
Next, we placed the old axle in a vise with one of the spindle sides up and removed the lock nut for the beveled kingpin bolt. Chaffers used a punch and a hammer to remove the beveled kingpin bolt and hit it from the side the nut was on. If you hit it from the opposite side you will only be locking the beveled bolt in tighter to the kingpin and spindle, so make sure you hammer from the right direction.
Next, we placed the old axle in a vise with one of the spindle sides up and removed the lo
Next, using a punch and a hammer, Chaffers hit the end of the kingpin dust shield to get it to pop up. Once the dust shield is moved up take a prybar and remove it. Be careful not to damage the spindle with the punch or prybar, because a new dust shield will need to take its place. Repeat on the other side of the spindle.
Next, using a punch and a hammer, Chaffers hit the end of the kingpin dust shield to get i
Using a big brass punch slightly smaller than the kingpin thickness and a large hammer, Chaffers pushed the kingpin out of the spindle and axle. This part you will need to use some force when hitting it out, and you can also use an air hammer with a blunt end if needed.
Using a big brass punch slightly smaller than the kingpin thickness and a large hammer, Ch
CPP has a kingpin set that you need to use with the axle install; it is not recommended to reuse the old kingpins and bearings. When the spindle is free from the axle the next step is to remove the inner spindle kingpin bearing. Chaffers used a big punch and was careful not to damage the spindle when punching the bearing out. It's a good idea to use some emery cloth to clean the rust out of the inside spindle area before installing the new bearing.
CPP has a kingpin set that you need to use with the axle install; it is not recommended to
Here, Chaffers used the old bearing to tap and start the new bearing. We made sure the bearing was lined up correctly and used a Snap-on bearing race and driver set to finish guiding the bearings into place. When using the tool, force is your enemy; make sure you gently tap the bearing and that you are squared up with the bearing surface.
Here, Chaffers used the old bearing to tap and start the new bearing. We made sure the bea
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