Classic Performance Parts 3-Inch Dropped Axle Install

This is how you will set up the bottom bearing, and there are two things you need to pay close attention to. The big end spacer that is on the far left is the top of the bearing, and you will need to lube these with a light coat of wheel bearing grease. Depending on what spindles you have on your vehicle there will be an extra-thick spacer that may be necessary to put above the bottom bearing. We didn't need it on my truck.

Chaffers lined up the bottom bearing and visually checked the endplay on top of the CPP axle to the spindle. We used one of the small shims that were supplied in the kingpin kit at the top of the axle in between the spindle. Do not use the shims on the bottom where the bearing sits.

Chaffers used the wooden end of a file to line up the top spacer and bottom bearing before we installed the kingpin. The new kingpin should be a lot easier to install than the old one was coming out. Be very aware that when driving the kingpin in not to pinch the bearings or spacers.

Don't forget the kingpins beveled pinch bolt and nut. This is the only thing holding the kingpin from falling out when driving.

Ries showed us a cool way to easily install the outer kingpin dust shield. Take a large socket that will house the dust shield and place the domed end down. Using a small punch Chaffers hammered the dust shield so it would have a bigger dome and would be easier to install in the spindle. Once on the spindle use the same punch and tap the center of the dust shield to spread it back out.

Since I was going to use the CPP 1.5-inch drop springs, Chaffers removed the rear bolt and nut holding the rear spring perch on.

Moving on to the front, remove the four nuts on front spring shackles. Don't try to hammer the bolt through because it is threaded on the inside of the spring and the frame. Since we were also going to use CPP spring shackles and bolts Chaffers used a large vise grip and removed the bolt in the frame.

Since we were replacing the shackles and hardware Chaffers used penetrating oil to soak the front frame shackle nut to get ready to drive it out with a hammer and punch. You could also use the old threaded bolt to punch it out. We replaced it with the new CPP nut supplied in the shackle kit and threaded the new shackle bolt into it.

Chaffers placed the two supplied rubber bushings on the outside of the shackle and placed the shackles on the bolt. Make sure the center hole of the shackle is facing down so it will not interfere with the frame.