The dome light circuit provided with the EZ Wiring panel is a white, battery hot wire. I run a black 18-gauge wire as a ground from the door switches up to the dome light with the white wire. So now the door switches are breaking a ground to turn the light on and off. This works well with the aftermarket headlight switches that have a grounding operation when the knob is turned all the way to the left to turn the dome on. Starting at the passenger side, run a black wire from ground to the door switch, from the door switch to the driver-side door switch, with an extra leg to the headlight switch, and up to the light. Also run a wire from ground to the driver door switch. The pigtail contact in the stock dome is one contact type and is changed to a two contact style. Part stores sell a double contact pigtail that fits right in. Then use a double contact bulb like No. 98. You can still use the stock on/off switch at the dome light if you like by hooking the black ground wire from the door switches and one of the dome light socket leads together. Then connect them to one side of the on/off switch and connect a ground wire to the other side of the switch.

Running wires into the doors is another tricky situation made easier by companies like The Glass House. Mike makes a bitchin door conduit product that has two machined aluminum bezels that retain a spring in which to run the wires. Hole-sawing the doorjamb for them is critical as the alignment of the two must be perfect for the spring to smoothly slide in and out when opening and closing the door. When installed they are a real clean way to get those power window and door lock wires into the doors.

Electric fan control for the engine fan can be controlled in many ways. My personal favorite is a controller made by Hotronics. It comes with a two-prong pipe threaded sensor that is available in 3/8- or 1/2-inch pipe thread sizing. It is installed by the upper radiator hose, in the intake or thermostat housing, and wired to a control box that is mounted underdash. The sensors have several heat ranges available that turn the fan on and off. The 180-degree works very well. You can also add a relay in the circuit to turn the fan on when the A/C is on. Remember to change the fuse in the panel to a 30-amp replacing the 20-amp that comes in the wiring kit. I have used them for over 15 years and never had a problem with one. Greg Schlup, the owner of Hotronics has developed quite a few neat electrical controlling devices for hot rods.

Mid Fifty F-100 Parts, in Golden Valley, Arizona, is your one-stop shop for anything having to do with '50s F-100s. Sy Miller and her all girl crew are the most knowledgeable and helpful group you've ever dealt with. Miller has spent the last 10 years or so developing reproduction parts to fit F-100s from end to end. You could build an entire truck from her catalog. In this wiring job we used her repo gauges to rebuild the stock cluster. It started out with just idiot lights, but with her new gauges it was easily converted. They simply screw right in to the stock openings. She also offers rebuilt speedo heads so your new F-100 will have an odometer that reads 00000 to start with. A new chrome bezel completes the rebuild of the gauge insert.

The gauges come with the required sending units. The fuel sender is universal and must be cut to fit the depth of the tank you're running.

She offers all-new switches for your truck's electrical needs-ignition, headlight, and door switches for dome lights, dimmer switches, and more. The whole wiper assembly is also available, from the wiper blades to the switch. The complete kit bolts in and works great.