This truck is also getting some power one-piece side windows and the window channel and glass kit came from Mid Fifty's also. Nu-Relics supplied the power motors, which are basically a stock kind of setup with power motors on them. They bolt into the stock regulator mounting holes in the door and work well. If I have one complaint it is that the whole regulator assembly covers the area where I like to have the window switches mounted. So instead they are going to be mounted in the opening of the door hinge bolt pocket. They could also be mounted in the kick panels or under the center of the dash, or if you're running an overhead console for your stereo, they can be mounted there too. The power window wiring was run at the same time as the rest of the wiring.

Since we're using a Classic Performance Products tilt steering column in this truck and these columns, like the ididit's, don't provide any way to mount a neutral safety switch to them, CPP has a neat add-on type that is billed as a neutral safety switch but actually is more of a brake safety switch. It is a relay that is wired in with a brake light switch installed in the brake line and used to trigger a relay to allow the vehicle to be started. In other words, the engine won't start unless your foot is pressing on the brake pedal. This way, even if the trans happens to be in Drive or Reverse, you're ready to apply further pressure and stop any movement before it gets away from you. It's better than nothing at all. It also doubles as an antitheft device since what thief is going to think of pressing the brake pedal to start the car.

These wiring kits also include an ignition and battery hot for the stereo, a wire for a power antenna, a wire for a trunk light, and a wire for a third brake light, which would need its location decided on when you run the wiring. It could go in the back of the cab sheetmetal, in the rear window, or as we often do, at the rear of the truck on the license plate frame as part of the license plate light and frame.

Up front the grille gets mounted loosely and the park light assemblies are installed. I say mount the grille loosely because you usually have to lift it up to get the stainless park light covers to fit. The wires are run into the headlight bucket area and hooked up. Be sure to check which wire is which, turn or park, with a power source so you don't have to remove the headlight assembly to change them. I take a piece of 7/64-inch windshield washer hose and slit it down the side and install it on the bottom of the park light stainless trim cover. It keeps the sharp edge from eating up the paint as you install them. Those trim pieces are a real tight fit and new paint is always looking for ways to end up scratched.

After you've got the whole system hooked up and it's time for the first check, I head over to the battery location and hook up the positive cable. Make sure all your switches are off and remove the dome light fuse. Then I touch the negative cable to the post. You shouldn't see any spark when they touch. Go ahead and connect the cable to the post and turn the key on. Check the dash gauge operation, they should come up off the posts or move to the lowest setting on the gauge. Turn the headlights on, check the high/low beam switch and indicator light. Turn the turn signals on and check their operation and the indicator lights. Then the wipers and so on. Turn the key and fire up the engine, if you're at that point in the build. Don't forget to push the brake pedal down to start the engine if you've installed the brake safety switch!