Isn't it nice when form actually follows function? The factory built lots of good parts for your truck as a production vehicle to work hard-not to look great going down the street while riding inches above it. One of the things often overlooked on trucks is their generally greasy and dirty upper and lower control arms.
Every truck with an IFS has them and they are usually stamped steel from the factory and mounted to the front crossmember with rubber bushings on a cross- shaft. Most people pay attention to the other parts secured by the control arms like ball joints, spindles, and brakes, but not the arms themselves. To be honest with you, neither had I until I noticed the beating the lower control arms on my '72 Chevy C10 were taking from bottoming out. The front lower edge of the control arms sure were getting scraped up from the truck being so low, but what can you do?
Years ago, people used to cut and step control arms to help lower the truck and you could box them, but that's a lot of work, especially if they're already getting hammered. The thing most people don't realize is that while the lowers are getting scraped up, the front lower edge of the control arm is actually being pealed back every time it hits the pavement-not good. That lower front edge could also catch on something in the road and possibly rip the control arm or worse.
Here are CPP's Totally Tubular...
Here are CPP's Totally Tubular upper and lower control arms for '63-87 Chevy trucks. They are designed with 5 degrees more caster than stock for a better road feel and so that the steering would return to center quicker. They also have patented self-lubricating bushings that will outlast rubber and urethane and remain squeak-free from day one.
Luckily there's a fix. Classic Performance Products (CPP) has been making tubular control arms for cars and trucks for many years now to solve these problems. CPP's Totally Tubular control arms for '63-87 Chevy trucks address the aforementioned problems and more. They are made of heavy-wall tubing that is far more rigid than stamped, unboxed steel, and they mount all their control arms with patented self-lubricating, squeak-free bushings that are superior to rubber or urethane. Their design helps reduce damage due to bottoming out on the road and will work with any of the stock Chevy ball joints from '63-87 as well as stock power steering systems. CPP also uses a graduated bumpstop that provides more suspension travel and a better ride for those pushing the limits, but of course can be used in an otherwise stock truck. CPP also makes them to accept convoluted airbags.
One last improvement over the OE parts is that CPP's engineers incorporated five more degrees of cast in the upper control arms for a more positive road feel and so the steering would return to center quicker. GM did this design change starting in '73 so the steering actually had feedback from the road instead of being very light since the introduction of power steering to the GM line.
CPP stocks most OE and performance suspension and steering parts for your truck, so you can rebuild your complete frontend and have peace of mind. Think about pairing CPP's Totally Tubular control arms with a front sway bar to really make your truck ride, well, less like an old lowered truck! See how Classic Performance Products can help you and your truck.
 Here is problem number one...  Here is problem number one that I had with my C10. It looked great stance-wise, but rode on the front bumpstops. Anyone with a lowered truck knows how annoying this is, CPP said their Totally Tubular control arms would help in this department. |  This is problem number two,...  This is problem number two, which I didn't even know I had until it was pointed out while up in the air at CPP. Because the front edge of the lower control arm bottoms out (common with lowered trucks) with the road, the impact pushes the lower front edge back and bends the stamped steel lower control arm on the cross-shaft that bolts to the front crossmember. You can see here that the front edge of the control arm and the cross-shaft aren't parallel where they are supposed to be. |  So off come the control arms!...  So off come the control arms! Of course the wheels, brakes, and spindles need to be removed to get to the control arms. For anyone thinking about dropped spindles or a brake upgrade, now would be a good time and CPP has it all. |
 Whenever loosening ball joint...  Whenever loosening ball joint hardware on a truck that is suspended on a lift or a jackstand be sure to support the lower control arm with a jack before releasing tension. Notice the brake caliper hung on a hook from the frame; you don't need to disconnect your brakes if you aren't replacing the calipers. |  The stock lower control arms...  The stock lower control arms are heavy, so get a friend to help hold them while you undo the cross-shaft U-bolts. |  The stock upper control arms...  The stock upper control arms come off easily once the two nuts are removed. Save your alignment shims and replace them in the same spots to get your truck to the alignment shop before driving anywhere else! |