CPP's Chevy C-10 Trailing Arm & Crossmember Install - Raise Your Lowered Expectations

Most improperly lowered vehicles ride as such, and the farther you go the more problems you encounter in the search for an "in the weeds" stance. There are many limiting factors as to how low you can go, from stock suspension parts to engine or transmission pans, frame clearance, body panels, and of course exhaust systems.

The last item was the limiting factor in my '72 C-10. The front of the truck was nice and low, but I could only go so far down in the back due to the exhaust system, which subsequently was being drug over every driveway entrance, speed bump, and railroad crossing I came in literal contact with. So my plan after finishing the LS engine was to also install one of Classic Performance Products (CPP) Dropped Center Trailing Arm Crossmembers, which are designed for lowered trucks, but also features 3x5-inch holes to run exhaust through. This would hopefully allow me to tuck the new exhaust up into the chassis and avoid the troublesome and destructive situation I was in before.

The other benefits of CPP's trailing arm crossmember for those with a truck closer to the pavement is that it has raised trailing arm pivot brackets to correct pinion angle that goes out after lowering more than 4 inches. Plus the crossmember provides more room at the top of the driveshaft opening. The crossmember can be installed with no welding or cutting if you want to save your original crossmember and can be used with all your stock rear suspension pieces. There are just over a dozen rivets holding the OE crossmember to the frame that need to be removed, which is probably the hardest or at least messiest/loudest part of the job.

If you are going father down in the back of your truck, CPP also makes a bolt-in C-notch kit that gives you as much rearend clearance as you can get without cutting into the bed floor and requires no welding. The C-notch is really needed for trucks with a 5-inch drop or more to retain a decent ride. And if you are doing all this, then you might as well swap out your rusty and worn out trailing arms with CPP's super strong tubular trailing arms. These have new self-lubricating bushings in them that will not only last a long time, but also help smooth out the ride.

After the new CPP Dropped Center Trailing Arm Crossmember and tubular trailing arms were installed, we swapped out the previous 4-inch drop coils in the back for 5 inchers and a set of 2-inch lowering blocks which brought down the back 2 1/2 inches before the coils settle. I'll spill the beans now, but CPP's rear suspension system combined with their tubular front control arms and sway bar makes for a smooth and low ride. It is a night and day difference how this truck rides now versus when I started on it a few years ago. Look them up and see what CPP has for you and your truck!

The first order of business...        read full caption The first order of business is removing every suspension component attached to the rearend (track bar, trailing arm U-bolts, and shock brackets) before it can be taken out. After all that, don't forget the brake line, emergency brake cables, and driveshaft. If you are working on old stock suspension, squirt all bolts with penetrating fluid a few days prior!	Getting this 12-bolt out wasn't...        read full caption Getting this 12-bolt out wasn't too hard since I'd had the rearend rebuilt a couple of years ago and already broken all the rust bonds from the past decades. Just remember how heavy/awkward rearends are when taking it out!	The coil springs that sit...        read full caption The coil springs that sit between the trailing arms and the frame come out next. The trailing arm side has a bolt coming up through the bottom of the arm into a steel cup with a nut welded in it. Put some fresh air tool oil in your impact and have at it.
Same goes for the trailing...        read full caption Same goes for the trailing arm mounts at the center arm crossmember. These bolts are heavy-duty and need the proper persuasion to break them loose.	Once you get the trailing...        read full caption Once you get the trailing arms out, you can see that they are usually worse for the wear.	More often than not, especially...        read full caption More often than not, especially in colder climates, the trailing arms are even rustier than this and possibly rusted through in spots. Also, the bushings in the front pivots are typically shot, just like these.