We've probably all heard the old acronym KISS. For those who haven't, it stands for Keep It Simple Stupid, which is a reminder not to get paralysis from over analysis (one of my other favorite sayings). Just about every aspect of building old cars and trucks has been done these days and while it's fun-or not-to think of taking a project down to the bare frame for chassis modifications, it's not always necessary.
The forward thinkers and chassis guru's at Art Morrison Enterprises (AME) have taken their proven IFS front clip design, stuck it in a pair of DIY framehorns, and dubbed it the Bikini Clip.
AME's Bikini Clip comes with plenty of framerail length at both ends of the crossmember to allow it to be put in just about anything, any way you want to. It can be put in as a stock suspension replacement, but with better suspension, steering, brakes, and of course ride, or you could kick the frame up for a real low ride, or even alter your wheelbase if you so choose. Yeah, you kind of have to have a clue as to what you are doing when you do any or all of this, but the sky-or ground-is the limit. Not only that, but there are lots of suspension, brake, and other options available from AME for a Bikini Clip.
Though most know Art Morrison for their super stout, trick, and superb-handling chassis, we have a boiled down install of their Bikini Clip done at Ron Pircey Race Cars. They did the install on the shop floor, not some fancy frame table, and it was done in very simple terms and basic measurements, which is a good ground zero point for the versatile Bikini Clip. The most important part about a job like this is being careful and thorough. Take your time and measure everything out as many times as it takes to make sure you have a grasp on the task at hand. And remember, it's only metal, but don't be afraid to call the Art Morrison shop if you have any questions.
 Here is your typical classic...  Here is your typical classic truck that's been through a few owners and changes over the years, still faithful, but a bit antiquated at this point in the suspension department with its straight-axle frontend. |  The first step is to remove...  The first step is to remove front sheetmetal and support the frontend on jackstands with the chassis level. You want to find the vertical centerline of the axle and/or spindles and clearly mark it on each framerail and on the floor. Notice the white chalk line on the ground. Continue to strip the front of the chassis down by removing the wheels, suspension, and radiator. |  An easy way to locate the...  An easy way to locate the engine on the new subframe is to leave the engine in place when doing this job. To do so, a second set of jackstands are used to support the engine while the front of the chassis is removed from around it. Just take your time to make sure everything is stable! |
 With the centerline of the...  With the centerline of the spindle marked on both the floor and the chassis, measure back from the axle centerline at least 12 inches to a clean and clear a spot on the frame that's easily repeatable on the other side and on the Bikini Clip. This will be the mark where the chassis is cut off and the new one grafted into place. On this particular application it was marked out at around 16 inches. |  As with just about any chassis...  As with just about any chassis fabrication, the more careful you are during the process, the better the results will be. Get familiar with your tape measure and a good adjustable square like this one. You can use a marker, soapstone, or scribe. |  Now that the mark is made...  Now that the mark is made it is time to cut. As always, refer to the age-old fabricator's saying, "measure twice, cut once"! |