If I can do it, you can do it! I have taken the EFI plunge and survived. Like many of you, I was/am not very savvy with electrical gadgets, wiring, or fuel-injection systems, but luckily there are people out there who are and make parts to help the electrically challenged.

This is the finale of our series on how to install a Chevy LS engine into your truck. The truck used was a '72 Chevy C-10, but most of the install is as universal as possible and outlines the parts or type of parts you need to do it yourself. This was even done with an '01 Chevy Suburban 5.3L iron-block engine from a wrecking yard. In fact, the owner of Dave's Goldenwest Truck, where I got mine, says he's now selling these engines for $500, which is perfect for those with more time than money. This should leave the remaining budget to buy the new harness from Turn Key Engine Supply and the rest of the parts you'll need. Listed in the source box in this article are all the companies I got parts from, excluding auto parts/hardware/electrical supply stores for miscellaneous pieces that will vary truck to truck and also depends on your truck's current condition.

There are several books available on LS engine swaps and people have been doing them since these engines came out in the late '90s, but we haven't seen any in-depth how-to articles pertaining to older trucks. Hopefully, these four stories will help those thinking about or scared to take the plunge into a modern EFI conversion. In fact, if you are handy and can do the work yourself, you should be able to do the whole swap for less than most new small-block crate engines cost. Not only that, but you'll have reliability, a lot better fuel economy, and last but not least--power! The C-10 still needs exhaust, but we did one easy dyno pull and got almost 260 hp and 280 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels! Not bad for a stock junkyard engine. Plus, it's no secret that LS engines are easy to squeeze more ponies out of and a cam and head swap can easily put power figures between 400-500. After a short and loud drive in the '72, I will say that 260 hp to the pavement is plenty for most people!

All in all, the swap went well and the engine looks almost like GM put it there when you open the hood. Throughout the series I've tried to outline any issues or concerns that I had so you know what you are in for. The other installments are in the March, July, and August '09 issues of CLASSIC TRUCKS. After some seat time I'll report on fuel economy and how much fun and driveable I'm hoping the truck will be. My best advice is to take your time with the work surrounding the swap and do it so you'll be happy with it for years to come.

SOURCE
Turn Key Engine Supply
7-60/-941-2741
www.turnkeyenginesupply.com
Russell
800-416-8628
www.russellperformance.com
Bowtie Overdrives
www.bowtieoverdrives.com
Classic Performance Products
175 East Freedom Avenue
Anaheim
CA  92801
800-522-5004
www.classicperform.com
Dave's Goldenwest Truck
6972 Garden Grove Blvd
Westminster
CA  92863
AMSOIL
Superior
WI
7-15/-392-7101
Amsoil.com
Southern Rods & Parts
800-787-8763
www.southernrods.com
Peak
www.peakauto.com
Brothers Truck Parts
www.brotherstrucks.com
Auto Meter
667 West 100 North
Box 717
Ephraim
UT  84627
435-283-4142
Sanderson Headers
517 Railroad Ave.
South San Francisco
CA  94080
800-669-2430
www.sandersonheaders.com
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