Power Window Glass & Wiring Install - Powering The Modernized Relics

With the switch spherically and geometrically unison with the door and window regulator, the wiring is the next item on the list. For this application, the Electric-Life motor will be wired in "reverse polarity" fashion. The AutoLoc switch will control the polarity and grounding (the furthest terminals on each side are for the motor; center two are wired to ignition).

Mama's warning still stands--don't play with fire! But if you do, as in the case with aiding in the removal of old, rock-hard window sweeps, proceed with caution! Softening of brittle rubber can be done with a little lighter fluid and heat in a well-secured setting (preferably outdoors, with the necessary means of extinguishing handy!).

Once the channel has been safely cleared out, take some time to straighten it out--chances are it's been tweaked over time, so now's the perfect opportunity to remedy that accordingly. A body hammer and dinging spoon seem to work well for this.

The new window sweeps shouldn't require much explaining to install, however, it must be noted that it's very easy to tear the rubber, so be careful and choose your tool wisely. Also, stretching the rubber some helps getting into those tight spots before having to spread the channel out.

The new felt channel from Chevs of the 40's had previously been installed when setting up the window kit, so now it was time to focus on the Electric-Life billet wire looms. This is yet another area where caution and precision are crucial--even more so due to the truck's narrow doors and jambs.

When plotting and subsequently drilling the 3/4-inch holes, remember that when the door's closed, the two must line up perfectly together so the braided stainless tube doesn't bind. Don't drill any larger than a 3/4-inch hole, period (lip on collar isn't much bigger!).

In reality--not to mention according to directions--you want to start with the A-pillar first when drilling. Even with the order reversed, the hole on the door aligns accurately with the one in the pillar.

But as you might be able to see, doing it backwards caused the loom to be a bit more towards the outside of the A-pillar than desired (even magazine editors screw up--but at least this one's admitting it!). Functionally, there's nothing wrong, and it works fine.

Luckily, another error was avoided in time when it was noticed that routing the wires "behind" the felt channel would cause interference with the window; this also applies to the wiring from the switch to the motor.

Okay, now for the tricky part. If you have any doubts about installing tempered glass, don't go it without at least seeking advice--it's better to ask first than pay later. Either way, if you can, go with setting tape as shown; but if needed, a proper silicone can be used.

Contrary to what some believe, using oil to help ease the installation isn't recommended. If necessary, liquid soap helps, but theoretically, you should be able to fold the tape over the glass as such and then firmly press the sash in place.

But no matter what, don't force the channel on! If it doesn't go right on, first try spreading it out, and if pushing alone isn't enough, only resort to something as forgiving as a dead-blow hammer or leather mallet.