1967-1972 Chevy Trucks - Air Conditioning Installation - My First A/C Install

The defrost ducts can now be run. Classic Auto Air includes these hose adapters to connect 2-inch hose to the stock defrost outlets that snap into the dash. The oval-shaped one is for the passenger side. If you need new dash outlets, now is a good time to replace them. Also, the instructions say to cut a long piece of hose for this, but my kit came with the pieces already cut.

With the heater control head on the bench, install the triangle-shaped blower switch bracket followed by the switch. There is a small wire connector to go between the switch and the middle lever that will control the fan speed. Little push nuts will go on the posts to hold the cables to the levers.

Carefully route the other two cables to the control head under the dash. With a small angle bracket, secure them to the original cable mounts and their wires to the levers. Next, connect the plug from the wiring harness to the blower switch. The truck's original brown power wire will need to be cut and have a male spade crimped on the end that will attach to the red-and white-striped wire from the A/C harness.

Since I chose the in-dash vent option, I'll be installing an original-style reproduction center dash vent. Use the provided template to locate the hole that needs to be cut to accommodate the vent. Be very careful doing this, especially if your dash is nicely painted!

The chrome vent will be held to the new hole in the dash by the hose adapter from behind like this. Unlike the other 2-inch hoses, the center outlet uses a 2 1?2-inch hose. If you prefer, the Classic Auto Air kit can be ordered with underdash vents.

To install the side ball louver vents, 2 1?4-inch holes need to be cut. Locate them as per the instructions; they are 1 5?8 inches from the bottom of the dash and 1 3?4 inches from the door jamb. Again, be very careful using the hole saw!

The ball louver vents unscrew from themselves and the front part screws into the new hole in the dash, while the other part keeps the vent snugged into the dash from behind. Make sure to deburr and file the hole first. Next, attach the hoses to the vents and then to the Power Pack.

Back under the hood, remove the hood latch and upper radiator mounts and set aside. Also, remove the battery completely, which was already disconnected.

Get started attaching the mounting brackets to the condenser as per the instructions. Take care to not bend the delicate fins of the condenser.

From here on out, it is very important to apply the provided mineral oil to all O-rings in the fittings of the A/C hoses. Without it, they'll rip and you'll have leaks!

Next, attach the dryer to the condenser using its mounting bracket followed by the pre-bent liquid tube, O-rings, and mineral oil. The dryer could go on many ways, but the liquid tube will only attach to the smaller of the two fittings on the condenser. I use an AN wrench on aluminum fittings like this.

After holding the condenser in place, I figured out where the upper fitting was in relation to the core support and then drilled a 1 3?8-inch hole for the discharge tube to pass through. Deburr the hole for the wires that pass through. When it came time to drill holes to mount the condenser to the core support, I actually found little dimples where maybe the factory would have put it that lines up perfectly with the new mounts, so I drilled those out.