We always have our feelers out for new products, builds, features, and what have you, but we just can't be everywhere at once! While shooting some other stuff recently at Total Cost Involved (TCI) in Ontario, California, we noticed a '47-53 Chevy truck chassis with some of TCI's new parts on it and asked what the deal was. Well, as it turns out they have a kit that is a direct bolt-in replacement for the stock rear leaf spring suspension on the 3100-series trucks. Cool! The only problem was that they had already installed the kit, but we're not one to hold anything like this from you the reader, especially when it's a cost-conscious and ride-quality upgrade like this, so we thought we'd give you a quick walk through the procedure.
Even though it is a bolt-in kit, there are variances in factory GM frames that might require adjusting a hole here and there, but the brunt of the install is getting your old riveted-on parts off. From there on out it is pretty straightforward using TCI's instructions. The task will be even easier if you can remove your bed to access the rear suspension, but not totally necessary.
One of the big benefits of the kit is that you'll get new leaf springs and shackles that are refined and designed to ride smoother than the more utilitarian stock pieces that have little to no finesse to them by design, unless they're weighed down with a load of turnips. Plus, this would be a great time to relocate your rearend to the top of the leaf springs should you want to lower the aft of your truck about 4 inches. If you need a new rearend, TCI can supply that, too. So save your money, welding, fabrication, and four-links for another time and project, and keep it simple and smooth with TCI's kit!
The stock leaf spring shackle mounts are cast pieces riveted to the underside of the frame, which means only one thing-we gotta get those puppies off first. | 
Removing rivets can be a "fun" job, if you know what I mean, but first, try grinding or cutting off the heads of the rivets and then grinding what's left flush to the bracket. Center-punch the rivet and start with a small drill bit, working your way up to 5/16 inch. Try to drive them out with a big hammer and punch. If you have an air hammer for this job, go for it-just remember your eye and ear protection! | 
Presto chango! The new rear leaf spring mount lies in place and is securely bolted to the chassis with the provided hardware. Notice the notch to clear a remaining crossmember rivet to the right. Now would be a good time to touch up your frame and/or paint the TCI brackets to match. |
Now that you have boned up on rivet removal, you can keep practicing your methods on the front leaf spring and E-brake mounts. There are seven or eight rivets per side. | 
The new front leaf spring bracket will fit over and onto the bottom of the frame like so and slide right back into place where the stock mount was-just match up the holes. | 
Once in place, you can start bolting it down. Occasionally, there will need to be a hole opened up with a 3/8-inch drill bit that doesn't quite line up due to variances in GM's factories and production. One new hole does need to be drilled in the frame on the front mount (arrow), but it is easy to do since the TCI bracket already has the hole in it where it needs to be. |