1955 Chevy Truck Classic Performance Products Dropped Axle Kit - Old-Time Lowdown-Done Right!

The tie-rod/steering ball needs to be removed from the lower steering arms to convert them to a modern tie-rod end. Flip the steering arm over and start by carefully grinding the backside of the arm where the ball end is.

Next, drill through the center from the backside so the ball can be driven out with a big punch. This will leave the factory hole where the ball end was installed and make it possible to insert the tapered end of the new tie-rod in its place.

OK, let's look at one of the biggest issues you must deal with when lowering a truck with a solid axle-drag link angle. The drag link is the piece that connects your pitman arm on the steering box to the upper steering arm on the left spindle. Look behind the spindle in this picture and you can see that the drag link is at a drastic up angle from back to front. There is also a binding angle where the front end of the drag link goes into the upper steering arm. All of this misalignment is the major cause of bumpsteer, which can be annoying, if not downright dangerous.

The heat wrench is the answer here. This is not for the faint of heart, but must be done if you want to avoid the perils of bumpsteer and premature failure of steering components. Before bending any part of the steering arm, it must be heated cherry red all the way through with a rosebud torch. Use a large, adjustable wrench to do the bending chores, which should be done slowly. Remember, safety first! You can seriously burn yourself doing this, or start a fire!

We can see the first bend at the right, which brings the upper steering arm-and consequently the drag link-down, closer to being level. The arm needs to be bent again near the drag link to flatten out the end where the drag link goes, which will eliminate that misalignment we saw earlier.

The lower you go, the more work needs to be done. The drag link needed a little bend to the left to clear the axle when turning all the way left; this was done in a hydraulic press, and done slowly so it wasn't overbent.

After the steering arm has completely air-cooled-never use water or compressed air-the drag link is put back in and is quite level, which is just what we wanted! You may have to go back and regrease the kingpin since that much heat can melt the fresh grease. Also, notice the shock has been installed.

Now the new tie-rod bar can be put in place. This can be done from either the top or the bottom, depending on what works best to clear other suspension or engine components. We're pretty sure this new one won't need any angle iron reinforcements like the old one ...

Well, there you have it-an old-school lowering job done right! So those of you diehards who aren't ready to take the IFS plunge, call CPP to get set up closer to the ground without cutting up your frame. If you are using your stock/existing brakes, go ahead and reinstall them and get back on the road. For this truck, we're going to finish with a six-lug disc brake kit from CPP next month-stay tuned!