Ford F100 Power Disc Brake Upgrade - Better Brakes For Your Bump Side

Make sure the master is mounted level and securely in a vise via the mounting flange. You never want to squeeze the body of the master in a vise. Bench bleeding the master will only take a few minutes and will help ensure good results in the end.

The new dual chamber master cylinder from Master Power must be bench bled before installing or you're pretty much guaranteed a hard time and a bad pedal. Bench bleeding is pretty easy and can be done one of two ways, run lines from the outlet ports back into the chambers (pictured) or you can plug the outlet ports and slowly push in the piston repeatedly until no more bubbles show up in the fluid with a blunt object.

Next, trial fit the 7-inch power booster to the firewall, making sure the clevis straddles the brake pedal.

Two things needed to be addressed after we tried to mount the booster. First was the four mounting holes that needed to be brought inward about a half inch to line up to the factory ones...

...This was done with a carbide bit in a die grinder; be sure you wear gloves and safety glasses, as this will produce plenty of metal shavings!

Second, we needed to swap out the longer booster pushrod with the shorter one supplied in the kit, as it was engaging the booster before the bracket was flush with the firewall. Taking a quick measurement and matching the length of the stock pushrod would've shown us this in the first place!.

Now, with the booster bolted up to the firewall and the pushrod taken care of (which also gave us proper brake pedal height), we can mount up the freshly bench-bled master cylinder.

Next, the combination valve is installed. Following the diagram in the instructions and using the supplied pre-bent brake lines, we join the master and the combination valve. I say it every time we deal with tube nuts and fittings but do yourself a favor and buy the nicest flare nut wrenches you can afford. The cheapies don't fit as tight and can still round off any of these vital fittings.

There is a bracket that helps support the combination valve that mounts to the bottom of it and also shares a bolt with the master cylinder.

Now we head under the truck and begin removing the stock front drum brakes. The rubber brake hose needs to be disconnected where it meets the hardline at the frame.

The steering arms need to be separated from the tie rods and steering linkage. This usually takes the work of a "pickle fork" to help get the tie rod out of its tapered hole.

Before taking out the kingpins, we removed the tapered pin that intersects the kingpin and keeps it from spinning and wearing on the axle instead of the bushings. After the nut comes off, use a brass or soft hammer to drive the tapered pin out.