 Once the dust caps and kingpin...  Once the dust caps and kingpin are driven out, we can remove the whole drum brake assembly. This is a real good time to clean up the ends of your I-beam axles and do any other undercarriage detailing. |  As mentioned before, Master...  As mentioned before, Master Power shipped the brakes already assembled, though we still needed to grease up and install the nylon kingpin bushings, dust caps, and grease zerks. Leave off the top dust cap until after the kingpin is installed. |  Each brake assembly is even...  Each brake assembly is even marked for the correct side, so heft it in place and on the lower side install the bearing and any needed shims (provided). With the kingpin in, there shouldn't be any noticeable play in the kingpin/spindle/axle. If you find out you have an axle where the kingpin bore is egg-shaped, now is the time to replace it or repair it. |
 Before gently driving the...  Before gently driving the new greased kingpin home, be sure to line up the notch for the tapered pin to the inside. Don't use a hammer with a hard face to do this either, since you can and most likely will damage the new kingpin. |  Install and cinch down the...  Install and cinch down the nut on the tapered pin, put on the top dust cap and grease zerk, grease the grease zerks, and hook up the new rubber brake line to the stock hard line at the frame. Check to make sure the banjo bolt on the caliper is tight. Before putting the wheels back on, wipe the rotors with brake cleaner to remove any oil or grease. |  Now we have the little matter...  Now we have the little matter of the stock junction block, which is also home to a low-pressure sensor. This all needs to come out, and the switch plug cut off and wired to the new one included with the combination valve, which is also where it will plug into now... |
 ...A good trick to getting...  ...A good trick to getting old fittings loose is to try and tighten them a hair first before loosening-sounds weird, but it works. |  This wound up being easier...  This wound up being easier than we thought and was solved with a simple inverted flare T-fitting for the front brakes and a union for the rear. |  Instead of using an adapter...  Instead of using an adapter fitting, which is OK, to mate the OEM front brake line to the combination valve, I wound up cutting the old fitting off and installing the smaller one followed by re-double flaring the end. |
 The stock hard lines needed...  The stock hard lines needed a small amount of tweaking by hand to line them up to the combination valve, but it all lined up pretty well afterward. Once all the lines are connected, go through and double-check with a flare nut wench that they are all tight. |  With everything looking good,...  With everything looking good, it was time to add fresh DOT 3 fluid to the system and bleed it completely. This might take a little while, but we'd bet your brake fluid is due for a flush anyway! Don't forget to hook up the vacuum hose to the new booster, and make sure you have at least 18 inches of vacuum at the manifold at idle for the booster to work properly. |  With the system totally bled,...  With the system totally bled, the wheels are about to go on and get ready for a test drive. Do this with caution until you are sure they are working properly! Also, be sure to break in (aka "bed") the new brake pads and rotors to get maximum results and life out of your new brakes. Master Power recommends 20-25 stops from about 30 mph with light to medium pedal pressure, allowing one mile or two minutes to cool between stops. Don't do any panic stops during break-in, and as always, if you have any questions, call Master Power and they'll be happy to help troubleshoot your install of their brake system. |