While the Highway 15 was a breeze to install, there are a couple things that should be pointed out for '47-54 truck owners. First off, if you plan to retain the stock instruments, you'll need to obtain some additional 8-gauge wire in order to facilitate the amp gauge (the kit is designed to operate a volt gauge). For this, it's necessary to run the same size wire that's feeding your generator or alternator from the battery, which is why I stated using 8-gauge. The gauge simply runs inline between the charging device (I'm using a Powermaster PowerGen alternator) and the power source. Though it's recommended to use a voltmeter for more accurate readings, especially with systems using additional components, for a basic setup this will be fine. Additionally, you will want to have the 6-volt fuel gauge converted to 12-volt (oil pressure and water temp will remain manual). Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts (800-262-3749) and Chevs of the 40s (800-999-2438) can redo factory gauges, including the mechanical ones. Lastly, the Highway 15 is designed for a traditional key-activated starter, but it's not a problem to incorporate the stock foot-activated starter switch, which is just what I did.
It's amazing what a little peace of mind can do when it comes to spending time behind the wheel of a vintage car or truck. Having the correct vital engine stats at your ready is one thing--not having to constantly worry about your truck breaking down, or worse, catching fire, is worth every penny spent updating your electrical system. If you end up deciding to rewire your own truck, but haven't done a complete wiring job before, do yourself a huge favor and get familiar with the ins and outs of a vehicle's wiring, from grounds to wire size specs and even proper crimping techniques (a lot of this info can be found on the manufacturer's Web site). CT
 As mentioned in the story,...  As mentioned in the story, the stock gauges will remain in the truck. While that will eliminate the need to run wiring for the oil pressure and water temp (mechanically operated), the amp and fuel gauges will need to be addressed. |  At some point in time, the...  At some point in time, the truck's original wiring was replaced, except the old stuff was never actually removed--most of what we pulled out from underneath the dash wasn't even being used. |  During the removal process,...  During the removal process, it started becoming very apparent how much of a powder keg situation had been behind the wheel all this time. That fuse on the left, nicely wrapped in tin foil, was the only "safety" feature in the entire system. |
 If that weren't bad enough,...  If that weren't bad enough, when the gauge cluster was pulled out and the wiring all stripped off, the main ignition wires all showed signs they were about to burst into flames--and it's not clear why they hadn't already done so! |  Well, at least all the good...  Well, at least all the good hard parts were still in great shape, though it's not likely they'll ever be used again on any of my projects (but because I'm a pack rat, I won't be discarding any of them). |  As for the mechanical gauges,...  As for the mechanical gauges, I'd fortunately just had them redone by Jim Carter, who also converted the fuel gauge to 12-volt. Along with them, Chevs of the 40s also offers factory gauge rebuilding. Since the water temp sender remains connected to the gauge, take extreme caution when removing, as it can easily be damaged. |