Generally, put one clamp at each end of each piece of tube to hold it in place. When you're done running the rest of the lines, add more evenly spaced clamps. | 
To secure the front braided lines, I used CPP's tabs instead of through-frame fittings. There's nothing wrong with through-frame fittings, but they do require drilling at least a 1/2-inch hole all the way through the frame. By drilling and taping a hole for a 1/4-28 stainless buttonhead Allen, I'll be able to remove or replace the tab if need be. With the tab far enough back to clear the front suspension, I used a test bend to see what bends I needed to start the next piece. | 
The brake line spanning the front crossmember and joining the front brakes together can be the most intricate and tricky line you'll have to deal with. Because of confining spaces, once a few bends are made it gets difficult to test-fit this piece until it's almost done. Measuring and mapping out the bends helps, and bending up a sample out of a wire coat hanger can aid in getting the basic shape. |
With the tube successfully bent around to the left side of the frame, I ran into a tight spot under the T-fitting's motor mount. | 
Instead of running the lines up to the master cylinder, I used two new pieces and ran them down to meet the front and rear lines that lay just below the firewall. The lines coming out of the master can be seen by anyone who looks under the hood, so I made sure they looked good before joining everything. Having the lines go into the bottom of the CPP master cylinder helps quite a bit here. | 
Can't forget to install the brake light switch. From here, if I wasn't going to tear the truck apart for paint, I'd fill and bleed the system. Get on the horn or your computer today with Inline Tube and CPP and round up the parts you need to release your inner plumber! |