It is also very important to deburr the inside, outside, and end of the tube to get a good flare. | 
There are two steps for inverted flares: making the first flare that gives the end of the tube a bulb shape, and inverting the first flare. Get it, inverted flare? Both CPP and Inline Tube can set you up with flaring tools. | 
Tada! Looks like it should, huh? Again, to meet up with the brake hose, I made two 45-degree bends in opposite directions prior to reflaring. |
With all the lines on the rearend bent and flared, it was time to pick a spot for the braided flex line to go to the frame. Again, you can weld the tab to the frame or drill and tap a hole for a bolt to hold it. Make sure the hose has plenty of slack for full suspension travel. | 
Before going further, I wanted to get the master cylinder situated since that was my next destination. CPP's slick MCPV-1 master cylinder contains a double adjustable proportioning valve, a removable metering valve, and a brake light switch port, all in a unit comparable in size to the popular Corvette master, but 260 percent lighter. If you have a traditional master cylinder and are upgrading to disc brakes, you will need a proportioning valve set up like the one on the right that hangs under the master. If your master cylinder is under the floor, you will also need the residual valves shown in the middle. | 
CPP's MCPV-1 master cylinder has all the proportioning and metering valve parts shown on the right built into the bottom of it. You can also run the brake lines straight into the bottom of the master or on the side like a traditional master. The single port is where the brake light switch goes. For more details, go to CPP's Web site. Needless to say, this really simplifies brake plumbing setup. Oh, and it also holds about a whole quart of brake fluid, too. |
CPP's master bolts right up to the stock location on the F-100 as well as most vehicles. remember, I'm setting up the '68 with manual four-wheel disc brakes,but the master can be used with a booster for trucks with power assist brakes. | 
Once the brake lines running alongside the frame are in place, they need line clamps to make sure they stay there. Anyone who's dealt with a custom brake system has probably used these simple stainless steel clamps, and if you haven't, they really clean up the job. They come with 10-32 stainless buttonhead Allens, but you will need a #21 drill bit and a 10-32 tap to install them. | 
Once you pick a spot, carefully drill a hole with the #21 drill bit, then carefully run a lubed 10-32 tap into the hole. Take your time and don't force the tap, because if it breaks in the hole, removing the hardened tap is not going to be fun. |