Like its blue-blooded competitor, GM Performance Parts (GMPP) offers complete crate engines in many shapes and sizes. They also offer them in lesser states of dress, better known as long-blocks or partials. For the end user who's not certain how or even where a new engine is going to be used, the latter is often the best choice, as incidentals such as induction, ignition, and exhaust can all be determined at a later date. As luck would have it, GMPP offers those, too-from carburetors to distributors, water pumps to fuel pumps, if it's a vital component of the internal combustion process, they've got it.
Among GMPP's gamut of powerplants, they offer a nifty little entry-level SBC often referred to simply as the "290 Horse." And that's pretty much what it is, a 290hp, four-bolt main, small-block 350 with no-frills iron heads and a hydraulic flat tappet cam. It's the perfect starter for a beginner's project, a replacement for a driver, or, as in this case, a mule for external assembly tips. Along with utilizing GMPP for pretty much everything needed to make this motor run, we will also be installing their deluxe serpentine accessory belt drive system so it not only runs, it'll also be ready to drop in a truck and go. Obviously, we needed something to fasten most of the items to the long-block, and for that we went to ARP for one of their complete fastener kits to avoid multiple trips to the hardware store during the process of assembly (but more importantly, to provide a uniform look with the same type of bolts used consistently). Finally, for a proper seal, SCE Gaskets supplied us with their latest intake, exhaust, and valve cover gaskets.
If assembling an engine just ain't your gig, don't sweat it-there's a turnkey crate with your name on it just waiting to be delivered!
 A big part of determining...  A big part of determining whether or not gasket sealers work is the surface to which they're applied-make sure both areas are as clean as possible. Brake cleaner works great, as long as you stay confined to where the gasket(s) will go, as it likes to take paint off very quickly. |  When it comes to installing...  When it comes to installing an intake manifold, the term "leak-free" is twofold: no oil leaks and no vacuum leaks. To help ensure the latter, try gluing the gaskets to the cylinder-head surfaces first. In this case, Gasgacinch was applied to both surfaces and allowed to set for 10 minutes. |  By gluing the gaskets on,...  By gluing the gaskets on, you avoid any movement while you position the manifold in place. Make sure the gaskets match your particular intake ports as closely as possible, for obvious reasons. No sealer will be used between the gaskets and manifold. |
 Even though practically every...  Even though practically every intake gasket set comes with front and rear seals (also available in one-piece configurations), many people have found that NO gaskets work best. Instead, try a nice fat bead of silicone from head-to-head instead of watching one or both of those gaskets push out as the intake is bolted down. |  The window of opportunity...  The window of opportunity is small once you've set your gaskets, so have the proper tools handy when you set your manifold in place. In this case, a box-end wrench was required for the innermost bolts. |  Follow the manufacturer's...  Follow the manufacturer's torque specs (typically 25-30 ft-lb) and tighten down the manifold in a criss-cross fashion, starting from the center and working your way out. If possible, install the intake with the valve covers off, just to give yourself that much more elbow room. |