After getting the freshly revitalized 235 back from Magnolia Center Machine, it was all on my shoulders to get the engine fully assembled. Didn't seem like a huge task at first, but you know how things go-you think you've got everything you need until you realize you don't...and that starts becoming a regular occurrence!

Fortunately, the nickel and dime stuff was just that-small items like miscellaneous hardware, fittings, etc. Thanks to Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks, Egge, Mooneyes, and Powermaster, the big stuff was handled. And since I'll be using the ignition, fuel pump, and starter from the 235 currently powering my '53, I don't have to worry about that until I actually swap motors.

As you will see, I ordered a new Fenton 2x1 intake along with a set of cast-iron headers (all Jet-Hot coated) from Patrick's. In doing so, Patrick asked what I planned on using for carburetion, and when I told him a pair of Rochester BCs (auto chokes), he said, "Send 'em on out-we'll make those nice and pretty for you!" Another chore out of my hands. When the mailman came knockin' with a package from Casa Grande, Arizona, I found myself staring at a piece of art-Patrick completely went through the carbs, built and polished a stainless fuel rail, and fabbed up a nice linkage system. Plus, the induction unit was completely assembled, so all I really had to do was bolt it on! To complete the Fenton setup, I just needed to bend up some 1/4-inch stainless for the choke stoves and install the 3/8-inch pre-heat tube kit from the headers to the intake.

Since the block is of a later vintage ('59), I had to order the retro-fit water pump kit from Patrick's. With this, you don't have any fan-to-radiator interference as you would when using a stock pump. However, you do need to locate a later fan, which will have to be slightly tweaked to clear the harmonic balancer. Finally, the Wayne finned-aluminum set used on the older 235 will be reused on the fresh motor-of course, not before receiving a good polishing!

Finishing touches included installing a new PowerGen faux-generator alternator from Powermaster. Here's where one of the parts-chasing episodes occurred, as I neglected to retain the 235's generator brackets. A quick trip to a friend's shop to rob the needed parts off a core motor solved that. The GM-styled unit puts out 75 amps (60 at idle), which is more than sufficient for a simple system without too many accessories other than A/C and a radio. The PowerGen is available in a satin black or polished finish and "short" and "long" versions (shown is the long model), both with stock GM mounting provisions.

Before I fully wrapped the engine assembly, I decided to finish off the 235's "finned" theme with a couple of items from Mooneyes: a pair of aluminum two-barrel air cleaners and their new aluminum remote oil filter-all finned (and polished), of course. The air cleaners bolt right on, obviously, but the oil filter will have to wait to be mounted to the firewall, as unlike the stock steel units, the aluminum will absorb engine heat, thus the decision (which isn't mandatory) to mount it away from the intake/exhaust manifolds. Combined with the finned beehive coil from AstroCoil currently in use, I think I've got every possible area covered, don't you?

Hopefully, by the time you read this, the new 235 will be in service powering the '53; if not, it just means the old engine's still holding in or, better yet, I just haven't had the time!

  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Last year, Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks announced the reissue of the long out of production Fenton 2x1 intakes. Along with the time-tested Fenton cast-iron headers and a pair of fresh Rochester BCs, you can imagine what's going to be the centerpiece of the 235.
    Last year, Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks announced the reissue of the long out of produc
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Fresh back from the machine shop, the 235 was ready for final assembly. Since the engine's of later heritage ('59), in order to use a mechanical fan in the '53 without any radiator modifications, we used a "short" pump from Patrick's. However, the fan blades will need to be slightly tweaked to avoid contact with the balancer below.
    Fresh back from the machine shop, the 235 was ready for final assembly. Since the engine's
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Being that the right-side components are still in use on the old engine, the focus will remain on the driver's side, concentrating on the new induction and exhaust. Before hanging the manifolds, new gaskets were held in place with the appropriate hardware. As for using any "sealing" agents, I'll leave that option up to you-I didn't use any for now.
    Being that the right-side components are still in use on the old engine, the focus will re
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Just thread the bolts into the cylinder enough to keep the Fenton headers in place-you want to allow room to set the intake manifold down in between easily without interfering with the intake port sleeves.
    Just thread the bolts into the cylinder enough to keep the Fenton headers in place-you wan
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Speaking of which, since the exhaust relies somewhat on dowels at each end of the head, in order to match the intake ports, make sure you insert the sleeves before slapping the manifold on. Also, these will prevent you from installing an earlier 216 intake (to properly do so, simply have the manifold ports machined out).
    Speaking of which, since the exhaust relies somewhat on dowels at each end of the head, in
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    With the carburetors removed for handling purposes, the Fenton intake manifold slid right in place without any fudging or need for a third hand (though that would have made it possible to install the intake with the carb intact).
    With the carburetors removed for handling purposes, the Fenton intake manifold slid right
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    The forward-most mounting point appears to need a little massaging, as the cast tab on the iron header isn't flush with the one on the aluminum intake. Before you go cutting or grinding, just make up a 1/4-inch spacer to wedge between the mount cap.
    The forward-most mounting point appears to need a little massaging, as the cast tab on the
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    As for the remaining mounting areas, alignment is dead-on and should look something like this...
    As for the remaining mounting areas, alignment is dead-on and should look something like t
  • ...when everything's snugged down tight.
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Regardless what induction you use, make sure your risers are new (and that the "top" points up!). With the Rochesters, you can avoid most common issues by simply making sure everything's installed correctly.
    Regardless what induction you use, make sure your risers are new (and that the "top" point
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Thanks to Patrick's, the Rochester BC single-barrels look better than they did when new. If you're rebuilding your own carbs, take the time to familiarize yourself with the various settings and adjustments (I purchased an old Rochester factory service manual off of eBay). Despite what many say, these carbs can provide plenty of trouble-free service.
    Thanks to Patrick's, the Rochester BC single-barrels look better than they did when new. I
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    While I probably would have used typical old rubber fuel line with a distribution block of some sort, Patrick's made sure the setup was super-clean by putting together a nice polished stainless fuel rail with polished brass fittings.
    While I probably would have used typical old rubber fuel line with a distribution block of
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    The addition of a second carburetor affects throttle linkage, but again, Patrick's solves that with the correct components.
    The addition of a second carburetor affects throttle linkage, but again, Patrick's solves
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Don't let the handwritten instructions deter you-the linkage system installs in minutes, but make sure you still have your stock bellcrank stud. The return spring now attaches to a bracket that mounts off an oil pan screw directly below, as shown.
    Don't let the handwritten instructions deter you-the linkage system installs in minutes, b
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Loosen the linkage if necessary in order to install the vertical throttle rod. Make sure the entire system moves freely without any interference. You can fine-tune the linkage setting now, or just wait until the engine's under the hood.
    Loosen the linkage if necessary in order to install the vertical throttle rod. Make sure t
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    As mentioned, in order to keep with the 235's finned-aluminum theme, I made a trip down to Mooneyes for a few necessities-first and foremost, their latest air cleaners for one- and two-barrel carbs.
    As mentioned, in order to keep with the 235's finned-aluminum theme, I made a trip down to
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Along with the Wayne rocker cover that was already being used on the existing 235, you can see the theme's starting to give the engine a sort of period race look.
    Along with the Wayne rocker cover that was already being used on the existing 235, you can
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Moon was also the source for the engine's finned-aluminum remote oil canister, which will be mounted off the firewall instead of the manifolds to keep the flowing lube nice and cool.
    Moon was also the source for the engine's finned-aluminum remote oil canister, which will
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    If you recall, back when the ignition was swapped over to a Mallory UniLite electronic, we used a finned beehive coil from AstroCoil-it will be retained for obvious reasons.
    If you recall, back when the ignition was swapped over to a Mallory UniLite electronic, we
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    And speaking of electronics, Powermaster's new PowerGen alternator was used for its generator-like casing and its 70-amp output capabilities. The stock brackets were all it took to attach to the engine, and it features a good old GM one-wire connection.
    And speaking of electronics, Powermaster's new PowerGen alternator was used for its genera
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Next, 1/4-inch stainless choke stove lines were bent and polished. Standard 1/4-inch compression fittings are used on the chokes, while the tubing simply inserts into the recess holes on the Fenton headers.
    Next, 1/4-inch stainless choke stove lines were bent and polished. Standard 1/4-inch compr
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Finally, in order to keep the Fenton intake manifold nice and warm during all stages of operation (which eliminates hesitation or rough throttle response), a heat tube kit from Patrick's will be installed.
    Finally, in order to keep the Fenton intake manifold nice and warm during all stages of op
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Patrick's kit uses a laser-cut steel plate for the manifold; make sure the tapped pipe fitting hole is closest to the front of the engine; otherwise, the tube/fittings won't line up.
    Patrick's kit uses a laser-cut steel plate for the manifold; make sure the tapped pipe fit
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    Simple, but effective. The addition of a butterfly valve (like the stock application) between the header collector and the exhaust pipe will also help keep the manifold warm.
    Simple, but effective. The addition of a butterfly valve (like the stock application) betw
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    For the remaining ports, I just found a couple of slotted brass plug fittings to match the rest of the brass ensemble.
    For the remaining ports, I just found a couple of slotted brass plug fittings to match the
  • The Old Six Fix Part2
    All the hard work paid off with the resulting work of art-let's just keep our fingers crossed it runs as good as it looks!
    All the hard work paid off with the resulting work of art-let's just keep our fingers cros
SOURCE
Mooneyes USA
10820 S. Norwalk Blvd.
Santa Fe Springs
CA  90670
5-62/-944-6311
Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks
Magnolia Center Machine Powermaster Motorsports
2401 Dutch Valley Drive
Knoxville
TN  37918
423-688-5953
Egge Obsolete Engine Parts
11707 Slauson Ave
Santa Fe Springs
CA  90670
Dept R&C