Aluminum Polishing Made Easy But Messy

There are some things in life that are just better left for others to do--you know, specialists who specialize in special tasks that most prefer not to mess with. At the top of that list, many might put paint or even bodywork, while others may find upholstery or engine rebuilding way out of their league. Well, in the last couple of years, I've made goals to not only attempt to perform any duties I previously thought beyond my capabilities, but to practice, learn, and come as close to perfecting them as possible. Sometimes I succeed; other times I realize full well why I shouldn't have bothered with the job in the first place.

While the art of chrome plating will never be something I list on my rsum, I can say that I'm pretty proficient at polishing aluminum, something I'd previously left for the professionals to do for me. As things in life become more expensive year after year, it's always nice when you can save a buck or two by doing something yourself, and polishing your own aluminum sure helps keep your folding money folded. Sure, you'll need to shell out some dough for the essentials, but as long as you don't have aspirations of opening your own polishing shop, you don't need to go all out and get the most expensive equipment and supplies. Matter of fact, you could probably get completely set up with just one trip to Harbor Freight!

OK, if you've never done more than make previously polished aluminum shiny again, let's go over what it takes to get started. First and foremost, at the very least you'll need a 6-inch bench grinder/buffer (if possible, get an 8-incher) or a handheld air grinder with appropriate arbors for mini polishing bonnets/pads. If you don't already have a bench or an anchored pedestal, you'll need somewhere "solid" to mount the buffer, as you'll be applying a lot of pressure on the polishing pad. And speaking of pads, you'll want to stock up at least two to start with: one to "cut" and the other to "buff," similar to bonnets used for polishing a fresh paint job. The remaining required materials include compound and rouge, a final polishing product, micro-fiber detailing cloths, and an assortment of wet/dry sandpaper (depending on the aluminum's coarseness, usually 400-grit and finer). For your personal protection and hygiene, I recommend latex or snug-fitting work gloves, safety glasses, and a shop apron if you don't want to ruin your clothing.

Basically, because aluminum is a very soft metal, it's treated like paint when polished, smoothing down a rough surface until it's uniform and shiny. And because of its soft nature, it's also easy to scratch, just like paint, so it requires periodic maintenance as well. If you're dealing with rough-cast parts, such as valve covers or an intake manifold, you'll need to eliminate the uneven surface, which is usually easiest to perform at home with regular automotive sandpaper, or, if possible, an abrasive wheel. Once the casting is taken down, you can switch to the buffer (or a handheld air-powered tool) to begin the polishing process with compound. I've found that even after machine-polishing with a final compound, you can get an even better finish by hand-polishing with a product such as Mothers Billet Polish, Eagle One's Nano-Polish, or Metal Armor's Precision Metal Polish.

You can get equal results with small parts using either basic hand tools (air or electric) or a bench buffer. For larger parts, to get a nice, even finish, it's usually best to work with larger equipment if possible. The equipment can be found locally or, for a one-stop source, Eastwood has everything, including a home shop buff kit complete with a 1/3-hp buff motor, abrasives/compounds, pads, etc. Be extremely careful when using any high-speed buffer, as it's very easy for parts to "get away from you" and cause damage to themselves and, quite possibly, your person as well. Actually, using a solid-mounted buffer as opposed to a handheld will more often yield better results, as you're in control of the aluminum, able to add more or less pressure to get the results you want quicker. However, both ways are messy, no matter what, so be prepared--wear appropriate clothing and set up a work area that can tolerate the spatter of spewed polish remnants.

Whether or not you end up polishing your own parts in the future, the important thing is that you gave it a shot. It's better to actually know something's beyond your abilities than to just assume and never try it. I may find this job easy, but it's time-consuming, and if you didn't already catch the drift, quite messy!