1975 Chevrolet Cheyenne Power Steering Upgrade - No More Ragtime

Just as I did during the removal, I used the large C-clamp to secure the box while I started the bolts from the inside of the framerail. And speaking of hardware, I used new Grade 8 bolts (threads coated with antiseize) with new lock washers.

With the box secured against the frame, the pitman arm was ready to be installed. If the splines don't line up just right, reach up and grab the output to manually mesh them with a U-joint.

If there's any question about your power steering lines' condition, replace them-especially the high-pressure line. CPP has kits available so you don't have to deal with the local parts house headache.

No more rag-joint, that is. The upgrade U-joint from Borgeson is also a vibration damper, so along with absorbing the shuddering, it will compensate for chassis flex as well with the absence of the old slip joint.

Borgeson provided a 36-inch Double-D intermediate shaft. Oversize, it requires shortening to fit properly. With both U-joints installed, I set the shaft in the lower joint (where it would end up mounting) and marked the spot above where it needed to be cut.

To keep the cut square and fairly clean, I used my chop saw. Once cut, I filed the fresh edges down smooth to eliminate any burrs.

Unlike a setup with varying angles, with the steering box a straight shot below the steering column, you don't have to worry about U-joint bind, so no need to keep the intermediate shaft way below the knuckles. However, that doesn't mean you cram it all the way bottomed out in the joint, either.

The same goes for the lower application. On the steering box's 13/16-36 output shaft, you'll notice the splines are separated by a recessed groove-make sure the U-joint slips over that, allowing the set screw to lock fully.

On the upper U-joint, there's a longer set screw that's meant to secure the joint through the shaft.

Mark the shaft on the flat side of the D as shown with everything mocked up where it's going to mount permanently.

Then drill the shaft, but only through one side, as you want the set screw to bottom out against the other side's inner wall.

Make sure every set screw is tightened and locked down appropriately. After the first 100 miles or so, go back and retighten.

Make sure every set screw is tightened and locked down appropriately. After the first 100 miles or so, go back and retighten.