In last month's DIY Corner debut, I kicked off the interior rehab on my '75 Cheyenne. Things finished (or, rather, were cut short!) with the installation of the ACC molded carpet kit, leaving the seat recovering, door panels, and trim for this month.
Now, having laid carpet down a time or two in the past, the first portion of the job was not the least bit daunting. However, when it came time to re-cover the seat, I was a little skeptical of being able to pull it off myself. I'd never touched a hog ring, let alone held a set of hog-ring pliers-but I've seen it done before, and I knew if I messed up, I could pull the cover back off and try again. Fortunately, I added a new seat foam base to my LMC order, so getting the bottom cover on straight didn't seem like it'd be that difficult, and it wasn't. But I can say this is definitely something you want an additional set of hands-and eyes-helping you out with. (Since I'd already suckered Riz into aiding with the carpet, I simply stretched the favor a tad more.)
Beyond the carpet and seat upholstery, everything else is pretty much "solo" type work you can perform with the simplest of hand tools. The door panels and trim really only require a drill and Phillips screwdrivers, for the most part. But if you need to do any color changing with the moldings, then you better head to the local auto body supply and pick up some vinyl/plastic prep and your color of choice. I always use SEM products, though I know there are other brands on the market-I've just never used anything else. When dyeing plastic or vinyl (I know, it's spray paint, but it is an actual dye!), like anything involved with paint, preparation is key. Not only do you want to ensure that all the parts are thoroughly cleaned, but to avoid the color scratching off easily down the road, using an adhesion promoter like SEM's Vinyl Prep is important.
You may not be up to painting your own truck or even rebuilding the engine, but when it comes to the interior, don't put it off because you've never reupholstered anything before-it can be done, and you can do it yourself. I did, and the closest I ever came to doing a complete interior was spray-painting my Volkswagen Rabbit's seats and carpet back in the early '80s!
Once all the rings were removed, the old seat cover upholstery was also removed, revealing the factory seat foam (base shown). You'll notice the padding has seatbelt cutouts; this particular seat came out of a later-model C-10, so we ordered the appropriate replacement foam (as well as the correct corresponding seat cover). | 
We stretched the seat cover bottom over the foam before we put it on the frame. You can get the cover over the foam if it's already on the seat frame, but it's not as easy. | 
Installing hog rings is pretty much as easy as using a staple gun once you get the hang of it. Just make certain the upholstery is pulled tight and even before securing it to the frame. |
Don't forget to hog-ring the seat adjuster cable; otherwise, one side will slide and the other won't! | 
By using the piping as a perimeter guide, you can pretty much ensure a nice, even fit like this. And if you get a little uneven, just remove the rings in the troubled area and adjust accordingly. | 
We redid the seat backing in the same fashion with equally pleasing results. Since the foam on the back portion of the seat was in good shape, I didn't have to order a replacement piece. |
Can't say the seat looks any different than if I'd had it professionally upholstered (that is, of course, unless it was done all fancy-like). LMC's seat cover kit fits like a glove, and as this is being written it has held up to my daily abuse without incident. |  | 
When ordering the front A-pillar trim, LMC doesn't have a part listing for pickups, but they do for Blazers/Jimmys (PN 38-2066/67), which fit just like the originals. |