Back when I was a wee lad, I never hesitated to disassemble any and everything in my path. Much to my dear mother's dismay, the majority of those items remained in their state of undress for the remainder of their existence with me (dad didn't care much, as long as I put his tools back). As time wore on, that would change--mostly because mom and pops weren't so willing to provide me with the goodies to tear apart--but my ability to put things back together definitely improved.
While the same still holds true to this day (mainly the disassembly part), the challenge of successfully rebuilding something is greater than ever. Take, for instance, carburetors: While the inner workings oftentimes cause mild headaches, I still put forth every effort to familiarize myself with not only "how" the parts go together, but "why." Other things, like stainless body trim, are a whole different story.
As simple as it may appear to be, dealing with trim/molding is almost an art form. Sure, anyone can do it, but to do it right takes a lot of patience and, most importantly, a careful hand. When dealing with fresh paint, the last thing you want to do is make more work for the painter by scratching his recent hard work. The other important thing is to not damage the trim as it's being installed, as most of the metal (new and old) is fragile and likes to bend or kink with little effort on your part. In the past, dealing with body trim was like rebuilding a New Departure brake hub on my Schwinn when I was five years old--things came apart, but stayed apart! That was about to change.
After getting my '75 C-10 two-tone painted recently (see sidebar), I was faced with two options: Pay the bodyshop or someone else to install the new trim package from Chevy Duty, or do it myself. Not having the extra dough at the time was a big factor, but moreover, the fact that I wanted to give it a shot weighed heavily on the final decision--and I'm glad I took the opportunity! Not being a very patient person to begin with was the only real obstacle I had to deal with...well, that and the fact that I neglected to duplicate the trim holes in the new doors and fenders "before" the truck was painted! The aid of digital photos of the placement and type of fasteners/clips used on the original trim came in real handy, but I was still faced with having to drill through fresh paint, risking the chance of causing damage that would be visible beyond the trim's borders. As you will see, that was not the case.
With the complete side trim kit (PN#62-571) from Chevy Duty in my possession, the only thing I needed was a day to myself to attack the installation. With a cordless drill, a fresh roll of safe-release masking tape, and miscellaneous handtools--plus the obligatory stash of cold ones--I clocked in somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 a.m. or so and was tightening down the last finish screw long before the sun had set. Had the mounting holes been transferred when they were supposed to be, it would easily taken no more than a couple hours, tops. Each piece of replacement trim is provided with all the necessary clips (snap-fit, stud, and adhesive-backed) and polished stainless screws, so all you have to do is line the trim up, attach, and go!
Personally, '73-80 C-10s look too much like a modern truck without the complete set of stainless. Despite what many say, this is a classic, and it relies heavily on features like this to keep it so.

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 Trim for '73-80 Chevy pickups...  Trim for '73-80 Chevy pickups can be ordered in individual pieces or in complete kit form through Chevy Duty. Since the '75 needed each and every shiny piece replaced, I went for the kit, which ends up being quite a bit cheaper in the long run. |
 The cab trim was the first...  The cab trim was the first to be addressed. The corner pieces were installed with the new spring clips even though the old ones were still intact (didn't trust their "springiness"). |
 The band, however, was mounted...  The band, however, was mounted without the new semi-hardware, as the original plastic clips for the band were left on and remained in good shape. |
 All but one clip were in good...  All but one clip were in good shape. The bad apple was replaced with a new one with a handy rivet gun. |
 Unlike the rest of the trim,...  Unlike the rest of the trim, the stainless band slides over the pre-installed clips. Here's an area that can quickly lead to a return trip to the paint shop--keep your eye on the leading edge of the band, as it's pretty sharp and can easily gouge the paint. |
 With the band on snug and...  With the band on snug and centered, the corners slip into the open ends before the stud on the spring clip goes through the pillar. A good-old pal nut is then used to secure the panel, and it's a good idea to throw a dab of silicone on the stud for a nice watertight fit. |
 And now for the fun part--it's...  And now for the fun part--it's side trim time. I carefully laid all the pieces out in logistical order and then started from the front, as I knew I'd have more work on that end and wanted to wrap things up on a high note! |
 The wheel arch trim went on...  The wheel arch trim went on without a hitch, as all four corners had the appropriate mounting holes in place. The front fenders and doors, however, weren't so obliging. A nice, crisp bodyline helped with alignment of the trim, which I taped on with 3M safe-release-type masking tape (to avoid adhesive lifting). |
 Besides having to cram my...  Besides having to cram my hands in tighter spaces than they were meant to go, these little guys made my life tough at times. Pal nuts can do a number on fingertips if you're not careful. They also won't come "off" unless constant pressure is pulled against them. |
 All trim pieces have access...  All trim pieces have access points for the clips. I placed the stud clips at each corner and end of the front curved piece. |
 Next, I set the trim back...  Next, I set the trim back on the fender to determine where the holes needed to go. |
 A pencil marked the spot;...  A pencil marked the spot; a snap punch secured the spot; and a UniBit made a hole out of the spot. The punch is vital to keeping the drill bit in one spot, as is a steady hand! I didn't want to deal with effects of a wandering bit. |