Last month we formally introduced our plan to build the first 100-percent aftermarket truck, and explained the method to our madness. Basically, with the availability of the Bebop's cab and Walton Chassis, we added a Pro's Pick bed, Bebop's fenders and running boards, and a Fairlane hood. The next thing we knew, we had a rolling chassis. Assisting greatly in this endeavor was Sacramento Vintage Ford, who carries each and every one of these components in their catalog.
For this installment, we continue our stay out at Bobco in Lake Elsinore, CA. Bob and the crew (which today includes F-100 guru Bill Lee) are going to install the CPP hood tilt kit onto the Fairlane hood. Since the hood was made to work with stock hardware, while the tilt kit was made for use with a steel hood, some extra modification was necessary for the two to mesh properly. The same goes for the hood mating to the cowl and fenders--it was a decent fit. But even after some fine-tuning by Bobco, some glasswork will be necessary once the truck gets to the body shop. As we've said many times before, some fitment issues are to be expected when meshing aftermarket parts from several different manufacturers. But truth be told, we left Bobco in better shape (literally) than we originally planned.
Also in this installment, we bolted together our new steel bed from Pro's Pick and hung the glass fenders and running boards from Bebop's. Again, there were a few modifications necessary to make the bed mesh better with the Walton chassis, and all of the mounting holes need to be measured and drilled, but all in all, this bed kit has proven it is worth its weight in gold. You'll see what we mean during prep and paint. Follow along as we forge ahead on our mail order F-100, and contact Sacramento Vintage Ford about any of the fine products you see being installed using the information in the source box.
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 Continuing our tenure at Bobco,...  Continuing our tenure at Bobco, the next step is to install the CPP tilt hood kit onto the Fairlane hood. |
 The kit comes with everything...  The kit comes with everything you need when converting from stock hinges to the reverse tilt. We won't be needing those stainless panels, which normally cover the unpainted area on the side of the firewall left by the old hinges. |
 First, the rollers are installed...  First, the rollers are installed onto the hood sides inner structure and snugged up. |
 Then, with the bulk of the...  Then, with the bulk of the kit bolted together, it is laid out over the hood and centered by measuring. It also became obvious that some of the fiberglass would have to be notched for the braced to bolt in place like normal. First, the areas were marked out. |
 Bill then sliced into the...  Bill then sliced into the area with a cutoff wheel and cleaned up the cut with a file. |
 Now, the rear brackets drop...  Now, the rear brackets drop into place and bolt up like normal. |
 There was a similar issue...  There was a similar issue on the front edge of the hood, thanks to a reinforced ridge on the hood's inner structure. Actually, a similar lip needs to be trimmed from a stock hood, too. |
 After more trimming, the support...  After more trimming, the support now bolts up flush with the inner structure. |
 With all our new parts, the...  With all our new parts, the area below the stock hole on the upper radiator valance had not been drilled out. |
 Bob and Bill now lifted the...  Bob and Bill now lifted the hood into place and fit the tilt assembly over the hinge brackets. |
 But once drilled, that is...  But once drilled, that is where the hinge bracket is located. Once the hood is installed and adjusted, the second hole is drilled and the bolt is installed. |
 The tracks slide between the...  The tracks slide between the inner and outer fenders and are secured with the fender bolts. It's adjusted so that it lands in place and guides the hood down without touching the fender on either side. |
 There is always plenty of...  There is always plenty of adjustment necessary. And since there is no engine in our truck, Bob crawled right in with a flashlight to see exactly what adjustments were necessary. After trimming the lip on the rear of the hood, and a bit of the inner structure where it made contact with the cowl. We had a pretty good fit. |
 The fit is good overall, but...  The fit is good overall, but there are still some issues that will have to be dealt with at the body shop. One of which is that the center of the hood sticks up way past the cowl. With steel we would cut and weld; with fiberglass the fix is simply more fiberglass. |
 We unpacked the panels of...  We unpacked the panels of our Pro's Pick bed and began the assembly by measuring and drilling the bulkhead so it could be mounted to the bedsides. These can also be plug-welded, if you're so inclined. |
 After double-checking that...  After double-checking that the measurements were square, Jason drilled the holes out with a pilot first and then the 3/8-inch bit. |
 The bulkhead was bolted to...  The bulkhead was bolted to the bedsides with stainless button heads. They'll probably be painted later, but they'll still look better. |
 Once we installed the crossmember...  Once we installed the crossmember under the front bulkhead and set the bed onto the frame, we discovered this discrepancy in the front mounting location. |