By now you've probably heard that the rumors are true: CLASSIC TRUCKS magazine has set out to build the world's first 100-percent aftermarket truck! No easy feat by any means, but with the enormous amount of help from Sacramento Vintage Ford, our dream is quickly becoming a reality.
It all started with the recent availability of the Bebops fiberglass '56 F-100 Custom Cab. The cab comes complete with the dash and doors, and that got us thinking: What if we combined this new cab with a few other key components made specifically for the Effie--Namely a custom chassis from Walton Fabrication and a new steel bed from Pro's Pick? With those main components covered, it is feasible that a '56 F-100 could be built without using a single part from Henry. We also discovered that nearly every necessary component, part, nut, or bolt was available through Sacramento Vintage Ford, making the ordering process much easier for an undertaking such as this--for us and any of you that thinks this sounds like your cup of tea.
The first two installments weren't really installments, but we began the build in our November `04 issue, with both the 347 Stroker build and the fabrication and assembly of the LS Series Chassis from Walton Fabrication. This month, we bolted the cab to the chassis, and loaded up all our parts for a trip out to Bobco, to take advantage of their expert fitment skills. Since most of the holes are not yet drilled in the fiberglass components, it is crucial to line up all the parts correctly the first time. This will save a lot of time later on during the painting process. Follow along as Bob and the crew hang all of our "sheet plastic" and check back for the next installment of the Package Deal. Remember, nearly every part is available through Sacramento Vintage Ford, so give them a call if you have any questions about any of the parts you see here.
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 Before our trip to Bobco,...  Before our trip to Bobco, we needed to set the Bebop's fiberglass cab onto the LS Series F-100 chassis from Walton Fabrication--both of which are available through Sacramento Vintage Ford. Walton provides these cool billet spacers that match up to the factory-style body mounts for easy mounting to the chassis. |
 We used the repro cab mounting...  We used the repro cab mounting hardware and fit the front bolts through the floor. |
 Now the cab was lowered over...  Now the cab was lowered over the chassis and the bolts dropped right into place. |
 The accompanying rubber mount,...  The accompanying rubber mount, washer, and Nyloc nut were tightened down. |
 There are several cool adjustable...  There are several cool adjustable aftermarket kits that align and secure the rear of the cab. But with this combination, it was recommended that we simply measure and drill directly into the frame. Of course, the washers and rubber grommet still need to be fit in between. |
 It was possible to drill directly...  It was possible to drill directly because of the steel floor brace in the glass cab that intersects perfectly with the frame. |
 After drilling, the bolt was...  After drilling, the bolt was started through the brace and snugged. |
 Upon arriving at Bobco, we...  Upon arriving at Bobco, we unloaded the cab/chassis and all of the steel and fiberglass parts, along with the steel radiator support and fiberglass radiator side air deflectors. |
 First things first, the radiator...  First things first, the radiator support was bolted to the frame using the factory-style mounting kit. Then the deflectors were held in place while the mounting holes were marked using the holes on the support as a template. |
 Now the deflectors were bolted...  Now the deflectors were bolted to the radiator support. |
 The top, inside corners of...  The top, inside corners of the deflectors were ground down to clear the upper radiator valance, which was next to be installed. |
 Bob bolted up the valance...  Bob bolted up the valance and test fit the fender to get an idea for where the next holes would be drilled. |
 The holes that mount the fender...  The holes that mount the fender to the cab were next to be drilled. The locations were based on where the fender met the cab and spaced out according to stock specs. |
 Mike drilled through the existing...  Mike drilled through the existing holes on the valance to locate the front of the fender. |
 With the rear of the fender...  With the rear of the fender being held in place, the hole locations were transferred onto the fender and drilled. |
 With the rear of the fender...  With the rear of the fender bolted in place, the holes were drilled to attach the fenders to the air deflectors. |
 At this point, Bob tested...  At this point, Bob tested the hood on the truck to see what adjustments would be immediately necessary. Then the grille apron was set in place. |
 The apron and fenders did...  The apron and fenders did not sit as flush together as they needed to, so a Roloc disc was used to flatten out the edges before assembly. |
 After the apron, the fender...  After the apron, the fender lip got the treatment. |
 Then the holes could be drilled...  Then the holes could be drilled in the apron. |
 Mounting holes were also drilled...  Mounting holes were also drilled into the bottom-edge of the air deflector so the apron could bolt onto it. |