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Watt's the Difference: Project Old School
Totally Polished Installs an Updated Version of an Old-School Solution
From the February, 2009 issue of Classic Trucks
All contributors: Jeremy Cook
When Chris Daley of Totally Polished called and told me he was building a new style of Watt's link, I'll have to admit I wondered if he was trying to reinvent the wheel. Watt's links became pretty popular around the '50s as a more effective alternative to a Panhard bar on race cars mostly, but the Watt's link is actually named for James Watt, the very same Scottish inventor that the electrical unit of power (watt) is named for. He devised this straight-line mechanism to support the piston rod of his beam steam engine around 1769. And what do you know, the name stuck! So why is the Watt's link suddenly becoming popular again? In discussing the Watt's link, some people think that it is overkill for your average truck. But with the popularity of adjustable suspensions, not to mention 20- x 10-inch rear wheels, precise control of the rear-axle geometry is more important than ever. Where an axle with a Panhard bar would travel left to right in an arc under heavy load, the TP Watt's link travels no more than a quarter-inch throughout the entire suspension cycle of Old School. No more burnt paint on the inner wheelwells. The Totally Polished Watt's Link kit does require some skilled welding (a broken mount could spell disaster on the highway) and installation on some trucks is easier than others, but the basic kit is a universal one and the length of the link bars and configuration of the outer mounting tabs needs to be determined (which you can do with a few measurements). The center crank and support bracket are both milled from solid aluminum, polished, and engraved at TP's CNC facility. The dual center bearings and races are from an S-10, so replacement will never be a problem. The four high-grade heim joints are also included along with all of the other necessary hardware. Follow along as Chris and Brad outfit Old School, and use the info in the source box for any questions regarding this killer new Watt's link. 
|  Old School was not in as bad...  Old School was not in as bad of shape as it could've been since I already installed a longer Panhard bar as part of the Airlift airbag kit. If any of you are running the stock bar on an airbagged truck, go ahead and get the Watt's link setup so you can repaint your inner wheelwell! |  The Totally Polished Watt's...  The Totally Polished Watt's Link kit comes with a polished billet center crank and support bracket, cut-to-length link bars and heim joints, axle and frame mount tabs, bearings, and all the necessary hardware. |  The key to the kit is the...  The key to the kit is the center crank, and it really is a trick piece. Besides being polished and engraved, it accepts races and bearings from an S-10 (a part number that was used for about 20 years). Is that smart thinking or what? And did you notice that the logo is backwards? That's so it'll reflect correctly in a chrome or polished diff cover! |  The link bars mount on each...  The link bars mount on each end with an Allen bolt that threads in from behind and is locked in place with a set screw. |  This assembly and an Allen...  This assembly and an Allen bolt is what makes up the bearing assembly and secures the center crank to both the diff and the support brace. |  First the Allen bolt runs...  First the Allen bolt runs through the support brace, followed by a washer and bearing. |  Then the center crank slides...  Then the center crank slides on, followed by a steel spacer and the second bearing and washer. |  Finally, the mount is threaded...  Finally, the mount is threaded to the Allen bolt. That large flat surface area is what will mount to the diff cover. |  On '63-72 GM trucks, it is...  On '63-72 GM trucks, it is necessary to remove the crooked crossmember that resides right behind the rear axle. If you're not running a rear-mounted gas tank, the crossmember could simply be relocated rearward a few inches. The same rivets hold the Panhard frame mount, too. So the extra effort was not in vain. |  Now it was time to remove...  Now it was time to remove the stock diff cover, which we will be replacing with a new chrome one. We also did some cleanup work on the housing, which included cutting off the stock Panhard mount and grinding the top lip completely smooth. |  Chris then cleaned up the...  Chris then cleaned up the area where the mounting tabs for the support bracket would be welded. |  These tabs were temporarily...  These tabs were temporarily mounted to the support bracket until they were tacked to the axle housing. |  The goal is not only to center...  The goal is not only to center the support around the housing, but also to center the tabs exactly between the framerails--all while being level from side to side and with the ground. Once it was, the center mount and the support tabs were tacked into the place, and then the Watt's assembly was removed for welding. |  Axle tubes will warp fairly...  Axle tubes will warp fairly easily, so extra precaution must be taken when welding on them. Extra care included a wet towel, compressed air, and welding one bead per side at a time. At this time we covered the other areas and painted the housing gloss black. |  Since the mounting area on...  Since the mounting area on the diff cover is not perfectly flat, Chris cut a notch out of a piece of tubing, welded it in as a filler piece, and ground the area smooth. |  Now the new diff cover for...  Now the new diff cover for our 12-bolt could be installed permanently. We used silver RTV sealer. |  We even used new stainless...  We even used new stainless button head bolts with our new cover. We hit the welded area with some silver paint. |  These bearings will never...  These bearings will never see the abuse that they would on the front of a truck, but it's still important to grease them before assembly. |  After the second bearing and...  After the second bearing and washer were installed, the assembly could be set into place. |  The crank slides over the...  The crank slides over the center mount before the Allen bolt secures it all. |  Then the support was buzzed...  Then the support was buzzed on tight. All that was left was to weld-up the frame tabs. |  Totally Polished recommends...  Totally Polished recommends boxing at least a small area of the frame to make welding the tabs easier and yielding much stronger results. A 6-inch area was boxed on each side on the frame. |  Using a level, an angle finder,...  Using a level, an angle finder, and our eyeballs, the area for the mounting tabs was found and marked. |  Chris then tacked the mounting...  Chris then tacked the mounting tabs into place. |  For the driver-side link bar...  For the driver-side link bar to be level, the mounting tab must hang down from the frame. Once again, the link bar was leveled and centered before the tabs were tacked into place. |  Just to be safe, Chris welded...  Just to be safe, Chris welded in this brace to prevent the tabs from leaning. |  Now we filled the rearend...  Now we filled the rearend with new gear oil and checked for leaks. |  Now all of the bolts were...  Now all of the bolts were tightened down (including the set screws), and we polished up all of our new shiny parts. |  Wow! How cool does that look?...  Wow! How cool does that look? And it works perfectly! The suspension cycles exactly as it did before (about 6 inches of travel), and I could feel the difference on the on-ramps that I did my "testing" on. |  We set the center crank so...  We set the center crank so it would be perfectly centered at ride height. With the truck totally aired out, the crank has only rotated about a quarter inch. Now I can run those 22-inch wheels with confidence! Whoops, did I say that out loud? Stay tuned! |
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