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Drop Box, Part I

Resisting Temptation and Lowering a '75 Shorty With Performance Online and Belltech
Photography by Bob Ryder
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With collaboration between Performance Online and Belltech products, we had quite the "package" to deal with. On top of that, Performance Online (we'll refer to them as POL from here) agreed to perform the install, as well.
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Using their line of Spicer/Raybestos suspension and braking components gave a feeling of confidence, and along with the 4/6 Belltech drop, it was guaranteed the truck would not be so easy to crawl under anymore!
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This is what I had been dealing with since the initial purchase of the truck--improper shocks, worn-out everything, and brakes pretty much riding on rivets!
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It was indeed time for a major overhaul!
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Removal of the majority of suspension parts was pretty self-explanatory (you'll need a pickle fork/air chisel to separate the tie-rod ends, ball joints, etc.), but be very careful when releasing the pressure from the coils.
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If you don't have a spring compressor, at the very least use a floor jack to "slowly" drop the lower control arm when removing the coil.
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It's also a good idea to keep the tie rods nearby and in the length they were removed in for future reference.
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Removing the lower control arms is simple.
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Just pop the nuts off the retaining U-bolts and move on!
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When removing the uppers, it's a good idea to keep the alignment shims together (as they came out)...
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...to make life easier when you go to align your newly lowered frontend!
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Wrapping up the first "R" of our R&R was the steering. Without a proper puller, you'll never get the Pitman arm off, so make sure you're well equipped before you start throwing things!
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Ultimately, this is what you wanna see before you jump into rebuilding your frontend--nothing! I felt bad for the POL guys since I hadn't taken the time to pressure-wash all the junk from beneath (figured the excess grease would make it easier to remove things!).
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Although essentially the same, pre-'73 control arms feature eccentric (threaded) control arm bushings; ours are the later press-in style (shown being removed here with the air chisel).
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Once de-greased and painted, the control arms received brand-new Spicer ball joints.
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Notice that the ball joints are bolt-in; you will need to chisel/drill the factory rivets out to remove the old ones.
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Finally, the new Spicer rubber (not urethane) control arm bushings were pressed (or hammered or slipped) in place. A little grease (even white lithium) always helps motivate things too, if you get the drift!
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The control arms were then re-hung on the crossmember.
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Before moving on to the Belltech portion of the job, the remainder of the Spicer steering components were installed. Now is the time to dig out those old tie rods!
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With the control arms spread apart, the new Belltech dropped coil slid right into the pockets, followed by their dropped spindle.
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Dust boot are your friends--so is grease. Use them both wisely! Just as important, do not forget cotter pins wherever necessary!
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Our last Belltech items to go in place were the Nitroactive gas shocks. For those concerned with shock length and angle, performance Online offers an upper relocating mount.
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Finally, the new Raybestos rotors (vented, cross-drilled by POL) and calipers were installed onto the Belltech spindles. In place of the standard pads, Raybestos sent a set of their new heavy-duty ceramic pads for better stopping power and less mess.
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Save for final alignment, that was all she wrote for the frontend portion of this job. If you're the type who likes things a little closer to earth, you'll have to explore lower control arm options (which Performance Online should have available by the time issue hits the newsstands). Stay tuned next month when show you the "simple" steps to getting the rear down.

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