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 The common method we always...  The common method we always hear about is using wire to mock-up the brake lines, and then bending up the lines to match. Walton Fabrication actually measures and marks out the inner framerail of their new chassis, and then follows the lines as exact as possible. |
 Each section of line is measured...  Each section of line is measured out, and a few extra inches are added before each piece is cut. It's easier to make one more cut after you make your bends than to come up short. Also be sure and use a good-quality tubing cutter. Some of the inexpensive ones are actually for copper and aluminum and won't last long if you're cutting steel, especially stainless. |
Did you ever notice how there are certain areas of a vehicle that the average enthusiast seems to be terrified to work with? Electrical problems come to mind in my case. Bodywork is also a popular choice. Even worse, possibly, is how many of us will go to great lengths (pun intended) to keep from having to bend up and flare a new piece of tubing. How many times have you seen a fuel line that goes from rubber to metal to rubber to metal to rubber? While you might be able to get away with patchwork like that in your fuel system due to the relatively low pressures involved, your brake lines are a different story. Disc brakes require about 1,000 lbs of pressure, and the drums use about 300 lbs--leaving no room for poor fitment or bad connections.
We recently dropped in on Todd Walton and the crew at Walton Fabrication to watch some expert line-fitting in action. And having since done some bending myself, I can definitely say that it's more rewarding than finding a short in your wiring.
 A step that is often overlooked...  A step that is often overlooked is de-burring both the outer and inner edges of the tubing. A quick hit with the file is all the outside edge needs. |  A 1/2-inch countersink drill...  A 1/2-inch countersink drill bit is used to quickly clean up the inner edge of the tubing. |  Here's how a standard 45-degree...  Here's how a standard 45-degree double or inverted flaring tool works. Unless you're using stainless lines and A/N fittings throughout, this has been the standard since the '30s. First, make sure the fitting you're using is already in place on the line. Then the tubing is secured in the bar with the section of tubing protruding equal to the height of the die you're about to use. |
 With the die inserted into...  With the die inserted into the tubing, the screw cone is compressed until the die is flush with the tubing bar. |  The die was removed, and the...  The die was removed, and the screw cone was screwed directly onto the top of the tubing. |  With the correct flare of...  With the correct flare of one end of our line, we proceeded to the bends. To maintain the proper length, always work from one end of the line to the other. As you work, try to visualize the fact that with every flare and bend, you're pulling the line in slightly. This is how people get into trouble and miss their mark. |
 Although any tubing bender...  Although any tubing bender will work, we recommend using a rolling-action tubing bender like the one shown. It utilizes a free-rolling follower to minimize stretching and distortion when bending. This produces uniform, distortion-free 180-degree bends down to a 1-inch radius. Some universal benders end up with a much larger radius. Our first bend comes right off of a residual valve to an immediate 45-degree downward angle. For the record, 1 1/2 inches is about as close as you should put a bend to a fitting. |  The line was threaded into...  The line was threaded into place so the next measurement could be marked. |  We're routing around the brake...  We're routing around the brake pedal mount on the framerail, so we need two more 45-degree up angles. The first of which was marked and bent. |
 Then the second was marked...  Then the second was marked out, putting the line back at 1 1/2 inches below the top of the framerail--which is where Walton typically runs them. |  It's mandatory that you learn...  It's mandatory that you learn how to use a tube bender properly. There are degree markings on the side of the mandrel and the base that tell you where to stop for a 45- or 90-degree bend. There is also "0" and "R." If you line-up your bend line at the 0-degree mark, the radius bend will start there and extend through the curve of the bend. If you line up your bend line at the "R," that line will be in the radius of the curve, which will make a difference in the line length. Next to forgetting the flare nut, this is the most common way to waste tubing. |  Looking at the two marks on...  Looking at the two marks on the tubing in this shot; you can see that Walton has it down to an exact science (arrows). |
 When mounted back on the framerail,...  When mounted back on the framerail, this section of tubing was spot on. |  Now you know what the horizontal...  Now you know what the horizontal line was for. Since the "T" will be centered here, the line can be marked even with the end of the threads for cutting and flaring. |  Walton pre-fabs some of the...  Walton pre-fabs some of the short bends like these so they're readily available during the installs. The tab will be welded in place and eventually the front left brake line will attach to the fitting. |