Tired of road rash and rock chips? A few years ago we found a protective film that protects painted surfaces from minor abrasions and flying rocks. When we recently rediscovered it in the Universal Products catalog, we thought it would be a must see for CCT readers. The installation was not difficult. The product is pliable and versatile, and in its proper use, it's invisible as well. This may be just the right item for those who dread the thought of hiding well painted surfaces with a vinyl bra. The material has almost unlimited uses, is inexpensive, and can be removed without harming the paint it covers.
Uni-Gard is available from Universal Products' distributors or direct from the company. The film comes in a variety of sizes and widths, and can be cut to order by most dealers. Check out how you can protect the paint in areas subject to road rash and flying stones.
 Gather your tools prior to...  Gather your tools prior to starting the job. Here we'll use the Uni-Gard film, a few cleanup supplies, a sharp hobby knife, and a plastic squeegee. |  The first step in any surface...  The first step in any surface operation is the clean up of the affected surfaces. We used window cleaner and a fairly clean, damp towel to wipe away loose dirt and a little oxidized paint. Complete removal of wax from the surface isn't necessary here, but you will need to work away from direct sunlight. |  When the surface is clean,...  When the surface is clean, measure the amount
of film needed by stretching it along the area you plan to cover. Too much film isn't a problem, but
too little is. |
 Position your film after measuring...  Position your film after measuring and strip off about a foot or so of the white backing paper. We set the film so it passed the hood's lower edge by a 1/4-inch or so all the way across. The lower border will wrap under the hood when the job is complete. |  After the film is in place,...  After the film is in place, you can begin smoothing it with your thumb as you watch for air bubbles. The material can be pulled back up if you encounter big bubbles or creases, but it will stretch out of shape if the surface is hot. |  We encountered a body contour...  We encountered a body contour crease on the hood of this '80s-era Blazer, so the material was pressed slowly into place using a thumb. The film is pliable on gentle curves, as long as the surface is cool. The material will cure within a day or so of proper installation. |
 Finally, trim the film at...  Finally, trim the film at the end of the finished panel. Pierce any small air bubbles with a needle or a sharp X-Acto blade. Patches of lighter color in the finished job indicates air is trapped beneath the surface, and that air will usually pass through as the film cures. | | |
Tape How To Part Two: Take It Off
Custom truck builders often run into trim removal situations. An unwanted emblem or that stripe that was so cool five years ago can always be scraped off or sanded into submission, but that usually results in paint damage, added repair time, and extra expense. The 3M Stripe Off Eraser Wheel is a common tool among professional trim installers. This rubber device enables the user to remove unwanted material from vehicle bodies without trashing the paint underneath.
When used properly, it can save considerable time and effort in most repair and restoration jobs. We thought this would be a good companion piece to the clear plastic Uni-Gard story, since they go hand in hand.
 The 3M Stripe Off Eraser Wheel...  The 3M Stripe Off Eraser Wheel (PN 0479) and its 3/8-inch attachment chuck costs less than $30 at better auto paint supply stores. While other manufacturers offer comparable items at lower prices, the 3M wheel seems to last longer during normal use. |  Our subject this time was...  Our subject this time was the protective film found near the rear wheelwells of '70s and '80s GM and Chevy trucks. Intended to prevent rock chips and paint damage, the stuff usually turned yellow as the truck left the showroom. On most trucks, it eventually cracked, split, and looked terrible. We wanted to take off the film without ruining the paint, so the eraser wheel was put to work. |  As always, the first step...  As always, the first step is a general cleanup of the subject area. Any dirt that's not removed can be ground into the paint, canceling the benefit. We used window cleaner here, but any strong cleaner and degreaser will work. |
 Attach the chuck and wheel...  Attach the chuck and wheel to the drill, set the speed, and have at it. The wheel melts through most vinyl surfaces quickly, so you should work with a small area at first. |  As you get the hang of the...  As you get the hang of the wheel's use, you'll develop a rhythm and a direction for the surface you're working with. Since the position of this Blazer's film was undercut and awkward to reach with the loaded drill, we worked top to bottom, front to back. |  The film used on these GM...  The film used on these GM trucks is thicker than most film you'll encounter, and it took a minute or so for the wheel to melt through. This is where we tell you to use eye protection and gloves, since melted vinyl is hot. |
 When the film is removed,...  When the film is removed, you'll find some debris left from the process. The best approach here is to go to work in another area, letting the last area cool. After a few minutes you'll be able to remove the material using a good degreaser. Thicker pieces will chip off with a plastic scraper or a squeegee. The surface is now ready for a final cleanup, rubout, and perhaps a bit of polish to protect the surface. | | |