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Project Old School, Part VII

Air Lift 'Bag Kit-Just in Time for Paso!
From the February, 2009 issue of Classic Trucks
By Jeremy Cook
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Air Lift's Easy Street kit,... 
   
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Air Lift's Easy Street kit, PN75709, fits '63-72 GM trucks with trailing arms. In addition to all of the hardware, the kit includes the 'bags, 'bag mount/ C-notch, Panhard bar and mount, shocks, spacers, and optional weld-in C-notch reinforcements.
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We're also using these shock... 
   
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We're also using these shock relocation brackets from CPP in the rear. Air Lift's instructions call for the stock lower shock mounts to be swapped to opposite sides--producing a similar result. But this way, we're using all new parts.
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With the truck off the ground... 
   
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With the truck off the ground and the wheels removed, we pulled the battery box and fuel cell and geared up for one dirty job. The plasma cutter made quick work of the three rivets that held on the stock bumpstop mounts.
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With both the frame and axle... 
   
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With both the frame and axle supported, the axle U-bolts, Panhard bar, upper shock mounts, and shocks were removed along with the front pivot bolts for the trailing arms. Next, the outer lip of the stock spring mount was trimmed so it was flush with the frame.
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Using the provided template,... 
   
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Using the provided template, the area to be C-notched was marked out.
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Chris then cut out the area... 
   
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Chris then cut out the area accordingly. He cut conservatively at first, and then enlarged the area as needed until the C-notch fit in place with no interference.
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A very late night with grinders,... 
   
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A very late night with grinders, wire wheels, Scotch Brite(TM), and lacquer thinner is what followed. I'd pretty much destroyed the shop floor, but I'd say the results were worth the effort. The frame, drums, and trailing arms were coated with black hammer tone paint. The axle and drive shaft were done in semi-gloss black. The truck was now worthy of all the parts we were about to bolt on.
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Using the C-notch/'bag mount... 
   
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Using the C-notch/'bag mount as a template, the mounting holes were drilled and the notch/mount was bolted solid.
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New bushings were installed... 
   
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New bushings were installed into the trailing arms before they were reattached to the crossmember. The lower 'bag mount attached with three bolts: one through the stock hole from the old coil retainer and two that must be drilled horizontally through the side of the arm.
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The trailing arm was re-attached... 
   
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The trailing arm was re-attached to the axle by bolting together five components simultaneously. The new Panhard mount slid over the trailing arm first. Then the angled spacer block was placed on top and the new shock mount fit below. Finally, two straight bolts were dropped through the axle mounting pad and tightened.
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The new adjustable Panhard... 
   
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The new adjustable Panhard bar was mounted from the stock frame mount to the new trailing-arm mount (we'll check the adjustment once the bed is back on). The new upper shock mounts and shocks were then installed.
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The Air Lift airbag simply... 
   
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The Air Lift airbag simply bolted between the upper and lower 'bag mounts with two bolts holding the top and one in the bottom. We temporarily installed a hose fitting to air up the rear and reattached the wheels. With the truck back on the ground, we cycled the suspension a few times to ensure everything was operating smoothly and then turned our attention to the frontend.
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Air Lift's Easy Street front... 
   
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Air Lift's Easy Street front 'bag kit, PN 75509, comes with the airbags and 'bag mounts, shocks, and hardware.
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The CPP '63-70 upgrade kit... 
   
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The CPP '63-70 upgrade kit comes with a 2.5-inch dropped spindle, calipers and rotors, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends and upper and lower ball joints. Jim was even kind enough to pre-assemble our stuff for us, making this the easiest disc brake install we've ever done.
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We disassembled the frontend... 
   
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We disassembled the frontend down to just the control arms and then ground off the spot-welds that held the bumpstop mount/steering stop to the lower arm so the stops could be removed. We then cleaned and painted as much as we could.
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We held the upper 'bag mount... 
   
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We held the upper 'bag mount up to the crossmember and used it as a template to mark the mounting holes that were then drilled out.
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The 'bag was attached to the... 
   
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The 'bag was attached to the upper mount and the air-line fitting was installed. A length of air line was also pre-ran so it could be attached to the fitting before the mount was bolted into place.
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Chris then connected the air... 
   
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Chris then connected the air line and bolted the bag into place on the crossmember.
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The lower 'bag mount was then... 
   
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The lower 'bag mount was then bolted to the airbag. Here you can see how it is cut to fit into the spring pocket securely.
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The spindle assembly was bolted... 
   
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The spindle assembly was bolted up to the ball joints and the castle nuts were tightened and secured with cotter pins. The new tie-rod ends, brake lines, and shocks finished up the frontend assembly.
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Air Lift calls what you see... 
   
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Air Lift calls what you see here their Bad Boy four-path plumbing and wiring kit (PN 27541AL). In addition to the five-gallon air storage tank and Viair compressor, the kit comes with eight SMC 15-millimeter valves, a pair of gauge/switch panels, all of the necessary fittings and wiring, and a ton of 1/2-, 3/8-, and 1/4-inch DOT air line.
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The "dump" valves for the... 
   
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The "dump" valves for the front 'bags were mounted together under the cab on the outer driver's side framerail. The 1/4-inch lines that tee off of each 1/2-inch line run to the gauges in the cab. Check the plumbing diagram to get the specifics. And when it comes to plumbing techniques: if there are four people in the room, then there will be four "right ways" to set up your system. My opinion: function over form. Easy access and the least amount of chance of the lines kinking are what I look for in a good install.
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This is what's commonly referred... 
   
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This is what's commonly referred to as "9-wire." Made by Scosche, it's nine insulated and color-coded wires wrapped in a thick, clear plastic shell. It's convenient to work with and aesthetically pleasing for high-tech applications. We ran it through the floor through a rubber grommet after the hole was checked for size.
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We mounted the gauges side... 
   
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We mounted the gauges side by side right under the radio hole in the dash. The switches go from left-front to right-rear.
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From under the dash, you get... 
   
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From under the dash, you get an idea of the wiring setup. The eight colors are plugged in to correspond to the valve they run to. The red wire (pretend it's blue) is a jumper that runs through the 9-wire and eventually to the battery. The four 1/4-inch lines plug into the back of the gauges to give you the pressure readings.
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This overview also helps to... 
   
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This overview also helps to show where everything is mounted in relation to each other. The compressor was mounted on the outer framerail, just behind the battery box. The tank with the four valves that perform the "up" function threaded directly into it was mounted on the left framerail just behind the cab.
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When we got the truck back... 
   
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When we got the truck back together and on the ground for the first time, I was nothing short of stoked. The truck, when completely aired out, equals out to about an 8/10-drop over stock. At this height, the fender lip to ground measurements are 23 1/2 inches in the front and 18 1/2 inches in the rear.
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With the truck "locked up"(meaning... 
   
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With the truck "locked up"(meaning that there is max air pressure in all four 'bags) the measurements are 32 3/4 and 23 3/4 inches. That's over 9 inches of travel in the front and 5 in the rear.
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This is the ride height where... 
   
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This is the ride height where I had the truck aligned, which is at about 27 and 22 inches, respectively. Of course, with adjustable suspensions, there are really two "drive heights:" the one you drive at when no one is around and the one you pull into the local cruise spot at.
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PLUMBING
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WIRING

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