By the time you read this, Project Old School will have successfully been driven to truck shows and rod runs all over the Southland. But it wasn't always that way. This installment focuses on the suspension buildup that took place over the very same 72-hour period that the last installment did. Now, while I'm sure this is not the best way to build a truck, sometimes the only way to get something done is to set a deadline and stick with it, even if that means eight hours of sleep over four days. The goal was to roll out of the shop Thursday afternoon on the road to Paso Robles with Custom Rodder Editor Rob Fortier.
An airbag system was part of the plan for Old School from the very beginning. Before I even had the truck, I came across a kit that I was intrigued with, due in part to the cool C-notch that comes with the kit which has the upper 'bag mount integrated into it. I also liked the fact that it was pretty much a bolt-in affair that gets the truck pretty damn close to the ground.
The Easy Street suspension system from Air Lift Co. fits all '63-72 Chevy and GMC trucks equipped with trailing arms and fit the bill for this truck perfectly. It comes complete with the 'bags and 'bag mounts, an adjustable Panhard bar, shocks, and all necessary hardware. Air Lift highly recommends that you use a dropped spindle with their kit; so we ordered up a set from Classic Performance Products. CPP then reminded us of their special that is currently running in this magazine (go figure), which includes dropped spindles, front disc brake kit, ball joints, tie-rod ends, bearings, and all the hardware.
Knowing the time crunch I was in, Jim and the CPP crew were even kind enough to assemble the disc kit. So when it came time for installation, I simply bolted in the spindle and attached the brake hose. While at CPP, I also picked up new trailing arm bushings and their shock relocator kit. This kit is cool not only because it does its job extending the shock travel on lowered trucks, but it also replaced the stock brackets. This meant that none of the old crusty parts or hardware had to be reused: a win-win situation.
When we started, the frame, axle, and trailing arms had yet to be touched. This meant nearly 40 years of sludge had to be cleaned off for a fresh coat of paint in record time--leaving one extremely filthy magazine editor, but also a clean, black hammer tone finish on the frame.
The truck made it to Paso, even though it was a day and a half later than planned (leaving Rob and his '55 to brave Hwy. 101 alone). I found a parking spot outside one of the watering holes that surrounds the park, went inside, sat with a cold one, and spent the remainder of the day watching people check out the truck. For the first time, it feels like the last year and a half of work is starting to pay off. Follow along as Chris and Brad of Totally Polished help me transform Old School's suspension.
Using the provided template, the area to be C-notched was marked out. | 
Chris then cut out the area accordingly. He cut conservatively at first, and then enlarged the area as needed until the C-notch fit in place with no interference. | 
A very late night with grinders, wire wheels, Scotch Brite(TM), and lacquer thinner is what followed. I'd pretty much destroyed the shop floor, but I'd say the results were worth the effort. The frame, drums, and trailing arms were coated with black hammer tone paint. The axle and drive shaft were done in semi-gloss black. The truck was now worthy of all the parts we were about to bolt on. |
Using the C-notch/'bag mount as a template, the mounting holes were drilled and the notch/mount was bolted solid. | 
New bushings were installed into the trailing arms before they were reattached to the crossmember. The lower 'bag mount attached with three bolts: one through the stock hole from the old coil retainer and two that must be drilled horizontally through the side of the arm. | 
The trailing arm was re-attached to the axle by bolting together five components simultaneously. The new Panhard mount slid over the trailing arm first. Then the angled spacer block was placed on top and the new shock mount fit below. Finally, two straight bolts were dropped through the axle mounting pad and tightened. |
The new adjustable Panhard bar was mounted from the stock frame mount to the new trailing-arm mount (we'll check the adjustment once the bed is back on). The new upper shock mounts and shocks were then installed. | 
The Air Lift airbag simply bolted between the upper and lower 'bag mounts with two bolts holding the top and one in the bottom. We temporarily installed a hose fitting to air up the rear and reattached the wheels. With the truck back on the ground, we cycled the suspension a few times to ensure everything was operating smoothly and then turned our attention to the frontend. | 
Air Lift's Easy Street front 'bag kit, PN 75509, comes with the airbags and 'bag mounts, shocks, and hardware. |
The CPP '63-70 upgrade kit comes with a 2.5-inch dropped spindle, calipers and rotors, as well as inner and outer tie-rod ends and upper and lower ball joints. Jim was even kind enough to pre-assemble our stuff for us, making this the easiest disc brake install we've ever done. | 
We disassembled the frontend down to just the control arms and then ground off the spot-welds that held the bumpstop mount/steering stop to the lower arm so the stops could be removed. We then cleaned and painted as much as we could. | 
We held the upper 'bag mount up to the crossmember and used it as a template to mark the mounting holes that were then drilled out. |
The 'bag was attached to the upper mount and the air-line fitting was installed. A length of air line was also pre-ran so it could be attached to the
fitting before the mount was bolted into place. | 
Chris then connected the air line and bolted the bag into place on the crossmember. | 
The lower 'bag mount was then bolted to the airbag. Here you can see how it is cut to fit into the spring pocket securely. |
The spindle assembly was bolted up to the ball joints and the castle nuts were tightened and secured with cotter pins. The new tie-rod ends, brake lines, and shocks finished up the frontend assembly. | 
Air Lift calls what you see here their Bad Boy four-path plumbing and wiring kit (PN 27541AL). In addition to the five-gallon air storage tank and Viair compressor, the kit comes with eight SMC 15-millimeter valves, a pair of gauge/switch panels, all of the necessary fittings and wiring, and a ton of 1/2-, 3/8-, and 1/4-inch DOT air line. | 
The "dump" valves for the front 'bags were mounted together under the cab on the outer driver's side framerail. The 1/4-inch lines that tee off of each 1/2-inch line run to the gauges in the cab. Check the plumbing diagram to get the specifics. And when it comes to plumbing techniques: if there are four people in the room, then there will be four "right ways" to set up your system. My opinion: function over form. Easy access and the least amount of chance of the lines kinking are what I look for in a good install. |
This is what's commonly referred to as "9-wire." Made by Scosche, it's nine insulated and color-coded wires wrapped in a thick, clear plastic shell. It's convenient to work with and aesthetically pleasing for high-tech applications. We ran it through the floor through a rubber grommet after the hole was checked for size. | 
We mounted the gauges side by side right under the radio hole in the dash. The switches go from left-front to right-rear. | 
From under the dash, you get an idea of the wiring setup. The eight colors are plugged in to correspond to the valve they run to. The red wire (pretend it's blue) is a jumper that runs through the 9-wire and eventually to the battery. The four 1/4-inch lines plug into the back of the gauges to give you the pressure readings. |
This overview also helps to show where everything is mounted in relation to each other. The compressor was mounted on the outer framerail, just behind the battery box. The tank with the four valves that perform the "up" function threaded directly into it was mounted on the left framerail just behind
the cab. | 
When we got the truck back together and on the ground for the first time, I was
nothing short of stoked. The truck, when completely aired out, equals out to about an 8/10-drop over stock. At this height, the fender lip to ground measurements are 23 1/2 inches in the front and 18 1/2 inches in the rear. | 
With the truck "locked up"(meaning that there is max air pressure in all four 'bags) the measurements are 32 3/4 and 23 3/4 inches. That's over 9 inches of travel in the front and 5 in the rear. |
This is the ride height where I had the truck aligned, which is at about 27 and 22 inches, respectively. Of course, with adjustable suspensions, there are really two "drive heights:" the one you drive at when no one is around and the one you pull into the local cruise spot at. | 
PLUMBING | 
WIRING |