My hat's off to those of you who've opted to retain the stock solid-axle configuration in your early Chevys. You're better men than I am--or, at the very least, a lot more motivated. Personally, building a pair of arms that look like Popeye's by way of steering wheel exertion isn't my idea of the perfect exercise program (I can think of plenty of better ways to burn calories, thank you). But I have a sneaking suspicion that most of you who've decided to stay the course and keep that old suspension and steering rather than upgrading to IFS of some sort have done so because of the expense and/or skills needed to perform the upgrade. If this is the case and you really don't enjoy those parking lot aerobics like you used to, take heart--Classic Performance Products (CPP) offers an affordable alternative!
CPP's Power Steering Conversion Kits and associated components can transform your solid axle '47-59 Chevy into a mild-mannered, easy steering pleasure to drive for a lot less cash than you'd think. The basic kit is designed to allow you to use a late-model ('69-87) Chevy 2WD pickup power steering box in place of the OE manual box and is perfect for use with either aftermarket or late-model GM tilt steering columns.
The basic, part number 4759PSK, kit consists of a replacement steering arm, an adjustable drag link, and steering-box mounting spacers and tab, and sells, at the time of writing this, for around $130. With this basic kit you'll need to supply your own power steering box, 6 3/4-inch-long pitman arm, and pump, hoses, and brackets. If you don't have a handy donor for these items and you don't feel like spending a precious Saturday morning at the parts store or bone yard, you can order up high-quality pumps and boxes (as well as the recommended heavy-duty replacement tie rod and ends, etc.) from CCP along with the basic kit. Be forewarned though, those running lowered frontends will need CPP's PSPA-R reversed pitman arm.
The Install
Even though we opted to look over the shoulder of Chad Vogele of Barry White's Street Rod Repair Company while he did the actual work, the installation process is really straightforward and requires only a tiny bit of welding (the top steering-box mounting tab). The balance of the installation can be done using the standard tools all us truck guys more than likely own in spades.
Basically, the first order of business is to disassemble and remove the original steering box/column combo and replace it with either a good used GM column, or preferably a high-quality aftermarket unit like the ididit tilt column and Borgeson shaft and joints used here. Another option is to modify the original column and utilizing RB's Obsolete Automotive's new Save-a-Column adapter (more on that in an upcoming issue) and a new CPP rag joint. Next is the removal of the stock drag link, steering arm, shocks, and shock mounts.
The original steering arm was mounted to the wheel backing plate below the kingpin and was home to both the drag link and tie rod/center link. In this case we opted to go for CPP's heavy-duty tie rod and ends so the original steering arm was modified to accept the new more reliable CPP tie rod ends (see photos). Unlike the original, the new power steering box mounts outside of the framerail. It uses, in part, the same mounting holes as the original, though it does sit higher on the rail than stock. CPP includes a triangular mounting tab in the kit that's welded to the top of the rail and accepts the final mounting bolt.
Once the new box is in position the new pitman arm, new steering arm (mounted to the backing plate above the kingpin, this time), and the modified original steering arm (mounted in its original position) can be installed along with the new adjustable drag link. The original lower shock mounts are repositioned behind the axle, as are the uppers. The new box is then attached to the column with a pair of steering joints and a new intermediate shaft. (As the new box is outboard of the framerail, a hole has to be made in the inner fender panel so the shaft can cross over the top of the framerail.)
The following photos will show the process in a bit more detail. It's really a straightforward conversion and one that'll greatly increase your driving pleasure. So check it out, and give some serious thought--especially after your next parking lot workout.
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 Here are the original '59...  Here are the original '59 Chevy steering components. The only original piece to be reused was the stock steering arm (though modified). |
 These are the replacement...  These are the replacement components used to perform the conversion. They consist of a basic CPP Power Steering Conversion Kit, a CPP heavy-duty tie rod and ends, A CPP power steering box, an ididit column, and Borgeson joints and intermediate shaft. |
 Start by disconnecting and...  Start by disconnecting and removing the stock pitman arm from the box. The steering wheel and box/column assemblies get the heave-ho next. |
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 Because the conversion relocates...  Because the conversion relocates the steering box from the inside of the frame to the outside, the positioning of the shocks are changed from ahead of the axle to behind the axle. To remove the brackets just grind off the rivet heads and use a center punch to drive out the rivets. |
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 The upper shock brackets (and...  The upper shock brackets (and the lowers too, for that matter) are then relocated to the backside of the axle. The uppers will use a combination of existing and new holes in the framerails while the lowers will just be swapped from the front to the back and angled a bit upwards to provide clearance for the tie rod. |
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 Next, remove the factory steering...  Next, remove the factory steering arm from the backing plate (this is accomplished by removing the tie rod from the right-hand steering arm and removing the left steering arm and tie rod assembly as a unit). Once you've got it out, snug the tie rod up in a bench vise and prepare to separate the steering arm from the tie rod. |
 There's a cap on the left-hand...  There's a cap on the left-hand end of the tie rod behind which hides a spring and keeper. The cap, spring, and keeper must be removed in order to free the steering arm ball from its pocket and separate the arm from the tie rod. |
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 Once the arm is separated...  Once the arm is separated from the tie rod, snug the arm up in the vise this time and grind the backside of the arm (opposite the ball). Once it's ground flush, flip the arm over and drive the ball out of the arm with a punch. |
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 The CPP kit includes a new...  The CPP kit includes a new (additional) steering arm, which attaches to the backing-plate above the kingpin. The original left-hand steering arm is remounted in its original location, but its new job is only to transfer turning motion to the right-hand wheel via the tie rod. Because of this, Chad decided to trim off the portion of the original arm that the drag link attached to. The new adjustable drag link will now run from the new (upper) steering arm to the pitman arm. |
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 In order to mount the new...  In order to mount the new power steering box you'll drill one additional mounting hole in the frame and add the supplied mounting tab to the top of the frame. To accomplish the mounting procedure, scribe the side of the framerail at the centerline of the axle. From this mark, measure forward 12 1/2 inches. From there measure down 1 inch from the top of the framerail, and mark the spot with a center punch. |
 At that point (12 1/2 inches...  At that point (12 1/2 inches forward of the axle centerline, and 1-inch down from the top of the rail) you'll need to drill one 3/8-inch-diameter mounting hole. |
 Here's the mounting tab and...  Here's the mounting tab and spacer from the kit shown attached to the new power steering box. |
 The best way to locate the...  The best way to locate the mounting tab correctly is to attach it to the box (as shown in the proceeding photo) and mount the new box to the framerail using the mounting bolts and spacers through the holes in the frame. Once the box is attached to the frame, the through-the-frame mounting bolts will hold it in place so it can be tack welded. Once it's been tacked, remove the box and finish-weld the tab in place. You also may have noticed that the inner fender panel had to be notched to allow clearance for the steering box mounting tab. Well, that's not the only trimming needed when it comes to that inner panel. Since the new power steering box is mounted outboard of the frame, the new intermediate steering shaft crosses over the top of the framerail and into the engine compartment. |
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 The new ididit polished stainless...  The new ididit polished stainless column was then installed following the instructions supplied with the column. Though you have the option of using an OEM late-model column, we feel that the peace of mind that goes along with a fully warranted high-quality ididit column was well worth the minor difference in cost over a remanufactured stock late-model unit. |
 Chad figured the location...  Chad figured the location for the intermediate shaft opening by using a wooden dowel pointed at an angle from the input shaft of the box toward the steering column shaft in the engine compartment. He then made a scribe mark on the panel, which he used as a reference point to mark an opening large enough to allow the shaft to pass through with no contact with the inner fender panel. That accomplished, he cut the opening with a cut-off wheel. |
 From there, the next step...  From there, the next step was to measure for the Borgeson intermediate steering shaft. |
 To make the measurement, Chad...  To make the measurement, Chad installed the Borgeson joint on the end of the box and used a wooden dowel to mock the length of shaft needed. |
 Once the correct shaft length...  Once the correct shaft length was determined the shaft was trimmed and the joints fit and phased. |
 With the initial assembly...  With the initial assembly nearly completed and everything test-fit, it was time to go back and check the tightness of all attaching bolts and nuts. It's a good idea to use a liquid thread locking solution on all attaching hardware to prevent loosening due to vibration. This includes not only the suspension and steering components but even the column drop and floor attaching point. |
 As the '59 Chevy used here...  As the '59 Chevy used here had been previously modified by the installation of disc brakes and a sway bar of undetermined origin, the original lower shock mounts were MIA and had been replaced with a pair of homemade items (welded to the axle). To remedy this Chad cut the old forward located mounts off the axle and replaced 'em. He came up with a pair of grade-8 bolts of the correct length and diameter, cut the hex heads from the shoulders of the bolts, and TIG welded them in place of the old one's (this time pointing toward the rear of the truck. The bolts were bent slightly to achieve the correct angle, and the shocks remounted in their new location behind the axle. |
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 With the box, column, steering...  With the box, column, steering arms, tie rod, and shocks attached it was time to install the new pitman arm and adjustable drag link. The box was centered and the pitman arm was fitted to the pitman shaft of the box and the attaching nut torqued to spec. |
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 The next step was to attach...  The next step was to attach the adjustable drag link to both the new steering arm and the pitman shaft, using the supplied castle nuts and cotter pins. |
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