We just purchased a '55 Ford Panel truck, and are having issues with locating the VIN/serial number on this truck. Can you help me out?
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I just recently bought a `70 Chevy C-10 4x4 pickup. I checked the VIN on the cab and it made me curious: The number is KS160F152419. I have an LMC book with the codes and from what I can tell, the "6" is the model type and it says it is a Suburban. I also have the numbers from the glovebox (CE247J151773), and according to those numbers it doesn't add up. I know the glovebox door could be from another truck, but the VIN number on the cab looks factory. Is there any help you can give me? It would be really appreciated.
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Figured we could kill two VINs with one shot. As with many `40s to `50s vehicles, there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason, and early F-series trucks are no exception. Your factory-stamped VIN could be anywhere on the frame forward of the firewall--some claim to have found it on the left framerail, while others have located it on the radiator crossmember. Additionally, there should be a "rating" plate located in the glovebox, which will list various data along with the manufacturer's serial number.
Moving up to the '70 C-10, while the location isn't an issue, the conflicting VINs are--and to top it all off, the sequences you provided don't really add up according my records (which isn't saying they're wrong), but ultimately I'm not so sure the cab VIN isn't correct, at least not the initial part stating it's a 4x4 (K) with a six-cylinder (S). Beyond the load capacity designation (1) is where both become confusing, at least on my end. I would suggest you ignore the glovebox and focus on the cab VIN--if your VIN tag and title/registration match, at least you're that far ahead of the game and not technically driving an illegal truck.
I wanted to get some advice from you. My10-year-old son and I are currently doing a frame-up restoration on what was once my father's `60 Chevrolet Apache 10. My father bought it in 1976 and gave it to me in the spring of 1994.He passed away later that same year, and the truck got put away until the spring of 2008.We have purchased a small-block 350 along with a Comp Cam with a duration of 280/280 and lift of 0.480/0.480.Also we have a Summit electric fuel pump, new 10-inch torque converter, Hooker headers, Weiand high-rise intake, and a 725-cfm Demon carburetor.We are about to update the front brakes to disc, but also want to do something to the back axle.Will the original back end hold up to what we are doing, or is a switch out in my near future, and if so, what can I put in?Thanks for any help you can give us.
Dad/Grandpa is definitely looking down with a proud ol' smile! And from the sounds of it, you and your son are turning the Apache into quite the performer. Judging from the engine and trans upgrades, it's probably best that at some point you do address the rearend situation, though I wouldn't go so far as saying it should be considered a priority (then again, I've never driven the truck, so really I have no clue as to the actual condition of the stock rearend!). Best-case scenario, as long as you don't lay into the pedal on a regular basis (five or six years from now you'll have someone else's foot to also worry about!), you should be OK--but if really want to enjoy that small block rather than baby it, yank the stock rear and replace it with something that can handle whatever the driveshaft can give it. If budget allows, a tailor-made 9-inch from Currie is hard to beat. On the other hand, if funds are a bit more limited, consider going with a Chevy 10- or 12-bolt (`70s Camaro/Nova rears are popular), but definitely have it gone through from axle flange to axle flange beforehand. That's assuming you're going with a five-lug application to match the front discs--if not, your "used" choices may become a bit less, as you'll need to narrow your search to the appropriate six-luggers, such as mid-`60s Dana of the GMC/Jeep variety.
I purchased a fuel tank from Performance Online about a year ago with the side fill tank. Per the message below, they told me you might be able to help me with information about mounting a fuel access door on the bed wall. I subscribe to CLASSIC TRUCKS Magazine, but haven't been able to find an article about it. If you can direct me to the info, I would appreciate it.
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There is no actual printed information regarding the "interior" side filler...that was just as their sales person had stated to you, a little creative! Performance Online actually designed a "one-off" filler neck for my '55 Stepside that we installed their stainless tank in a few years back. But if you're handy with TIG welding aluminum (or even steel for that matter), you could make a similar one, or you could do what I had initially planned on doing and take a late-model truck or car filler or Hagan gas door and integrate it into your inner bed box--door and all. Another option would be to consider taking a pre-fab aluminum filler unit, such as the one from Air Ride Technologies' Precision Coachworks, and adapt accordingly. To the best of my knowledge, the only application-specific kit options you have would be the readily available exterior-fill units or the flush-mount bed floor caps.