Lowdown On The Hightops
Just reading your response to John Campbell in the August '08 issue. The correct answer to his question as to the year of the carbs (they are, as you stated, BC versions) used in the build article on the 235 is: They are the '52-54 Chevy passenger car (Powerglide) carbs, known as the "Hightop" version because of the square-shouldered top section, which was introduced in 1952 to help solve the tendency to leak, something the "Lowtop" '50-51 carbs had definite problems with. All five of these years ('50-54) had the nice stand-up air horn, which allowed the clamp-on-style air cleaners. The '55-and-later carbs had a crossbar and stud air horn, which disallowed the traditional air cleaners. Hope this helps!
Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks
Thanks for the words of wisdom, Patrick! As always, it's a pleasure hearing from you.
Sympathy for The (Anti) Devil...of Used Parts
I'd like to sympathize with Mr. Long who wrote a letter in the August issue and made some comments. There is nothing wrong with used parts from a salvage yard or elsewhere, and he apparently has had good luck with his drivetrain, engine, and transmission, but there are many reputable firms that sell GM (and I suppose) Ford "official" reproduction parts. I've ordered trim and interior parts as well as side moldings, switches, turn signal stalks, and other sundry items from LMC for my '86 Chevy pickup and have had no problems with durability. I've also combed the salvage yards and had good luck there with non-drivetrain parts, but luckily I have a vehicle that has many close relatives in salvage yards. I agree that I wouldn't start looking for shocks and bushings down at the junkyard, and I couldn't imagine buying a reproduction hubcap when originals are readily available. I don't think that there is any hard and fast rule that states used parts are always better or worse than new parts. If a used part is restored, then it may actually become a new part! I'm not trying to customize my vehicle, I just want it to look like it did in 1986, so I'm looking for either original or "official reproduction" parts. I think that if I was Mr. Long I'd join a vintage Chevrolet club and work through them on restoration parts. I would also contact CLASSIC TRUCKS and make your magazine aware of suppliers and advertisers that are selling defective goods so that you can hopefully refuse their advertising.
Karl D. Spence
Via the Internet
I won't (really) argue with you, Karl, but I will say one thing: There's a mighty big difference between "used" parts for '80s trucks versus those for much older trucks. Suffice it to say, it's a gamble when dealing with certain components, and since I'm not a huge gamblin' man, well...
Where's The Swap Meet At?!
In your November '08 issue, I noticed on page 10 you stated you had created a new "swap meet" section to provide a source for parts and complete trucks if needed. Recently I couldn't locate the link to this section on your Web site. Please give me a hint! Excellent magazine, by the way! I read every article each month. Am I not searching for the correct link? Keep up the good work!
Noel, here's the best hint I can give you: http://forums.classictrucks.com/69/6207145/swap-meet/index.html. Hope that helps!
Discs For 8-Luggers?
I would like information on how to put disc brakes on my '63 3/4-ton and keep the eight-bolt lug pattern. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Via the Internet
Don, you are not alone in your quest! While I'm not certain about any particular conversion kits currently available or not, I do know you can obtain disc brakes with the desired eight-lug pattern. You'll need to swap out your spindles for those from a '72-and-later 3/4-ton. Along with this, you'll also need to convert to the appropriate ball joints, as well. This can be done with brand-new parts or-gasp-used parts, but be sure to have the rotors turned (if they still have enough meat on 'em) and slap new brake pads between the calipers. Finally, you'll need to update your master cylinder to accommodate the "disc/drum" setup.