Venting Issues With Gas
I am interested in the fuel system remodel ("Got Gas?" May '07) because that's the next project on my '53 Chevy 3100. What I don't understand is, where is the vent? You are obviously not using a vented cap. You don't mention anything about how air gets into the tank to replace the fuel that is pumped out. What about fuel expansion? Charcoal filters obviously don't fit in these trucks. Vented caps are supposedly illegal. How are you getting the fuel system to work without allowing air in to replace the fuel that is used?
Dan, sorry there was any confusion from that story. To clear things up, the system you're referring to-the CPP aluminum fuel tank-was properly vented. Like you noted, the cap was not vented; however, the tank itself was (as shown in the photo). As for the legalities of venting methods, those are aimed at preventing fuel leakage in the event of a rollover, and as far as I can tell, they only apply to caps. There's also the issue of emissions legalities, but since neither the '60 F-100 nor your '53 3100 apply in their respected localities, we need not delve into that. Hopefully we're all on the same page now. -Ed.
Great mag. Keep up the good work. I've got a '66 1/2-ton shortbed Chevy pickup with a small-block Chevy, and I have a problem! I recently switched from the stock fuel pump to an electric in order to free up the stock pump's mounting holes for air-conditioning brackets. My new small-block is an early 400 four-bolt main with a mildly modified cam, heads, ignition, headers, and 2x4s. I bought an Aeromotive AEI-11203 Street/Strip pump. My problem is the noise. I have mounted the pump with heavy rubber pads with no metal to metal contact at any point, and no metal lines hooked up to it solid. All you can hear is the pump running, even over the motor. Did I buy the wrong pump? This noise is unbearable. Is there a good, quiet electric pump I can replace it with, or should I dump the air-conditioning idea and go back to the manual pump? Help!Butch WhiteVia the Internet
Well, Butch, since we recently installed an Aeromotive electric fuel pump, you came to the right place for answers-let's hope we get them right! First off, the Street/Strip pump is not the quietest unit on the market, but it is one of the best. And to keep customers happy, Aeromotive has addressed the noise issue by developing a special bracket and new mounting isolators that, combined, reduce the noise level by 70 percent in frame-mount situations. If this is something you can live with, give them a call at 913-647-7300. We'd hate to see you ditch your A/C unit when the solution is a much cheaper-and cooler-alternative! Good luck. -Ed.
How Low Can YOU Go?
I read your article "Satisfaction...No Guarantees!" in the March '07 issue of CLASSIC TRUCKS. The picture in the article makes the '53 look like it sits pretty low. How did you do this and still keep the 235 and straight-axle? I am a 38-year-old guy with a wife, a 3-year-old son, and all the expensive things that come with that (i.e. house note, car note, day care, etc.). I am also the owner of a '54 Chevy 3100 that doesn't run, so I would like to get it going, but I don't like how high it sits in the air! I don't have the money for IFS right now, and I also don't want to do a lot of trial and error to get the ride height I want. I'm keeping the straight-axle and 235 right now, so please give me some tips.
Mike, I'd be more than happy to reveal my secrets, as they're not really mine to begin with! For starters, I purchased the truck with the current frontal stance. While I intend on changing a few things, the process is something you can duplicate on yours, or, at the very least, come pretty close. The main thing is the axle, which for all intents and purposes isn't straight, even in stock form. The truck's axle features a 5-inch drop by a company in Oakland, California, called Mor-Drop. I believe they're still in business, but they aren't the only game in town-our pals at Industrial Chassis can also help you by dropping your existing axle (ironically, it was announced in the very same issue). Contact them at 602-278-6800 for more info.
Better yet, you can get a decent drop and a better stop to boot by simply throwing a dropped axle from CPP with disc brakes under your truck. See their ad for details. And with the CPP kit, you're also taking care of your altered steering issues, which is something you'll have to address on your own otherwise.
Now, the one thing that I'm cautious mentioning is the springs, as they've been heavily de-arched on the ends. Most people will tell you that performing this severely weakens the spring steel, but if you have the process performed by a reputable spring shop, you'll be better off than doing it yourself with a torch. I'd actually recommend going with a completely new lowered leaf, which is something Eaton Detroit Spring (313-963-3839) can definitely take care of.
Lastly, wheel and tire choice can play a part in ride height. I stepped down from stock 16s with 600-16 bias-plies to 15-inch wheels with 640-15s, netting me about an inch off the profile. As simple as the Advanced Design front suspensions are, there's a lot to deal with when trying to reconfigure the physical properties!